• Tuesday, October 27, 2020

New Four Seasons Restaurant

The Grill - The Golden Age has Returned
September 21, 2017

Why we like it:   To be clear, the bar was set very high.  The Grill is the first new restaurant in the  iconic space that was home for decades to the power lunch spot the Four Seasons restaurant.  So of course, they brought in Major Food Group, where it is not their first rodeo in re-defining classic cuisine in a place where you would actually want to hang out.  The result?  The Golden Age of New York has returned. We are happy to report that back are the days of excessive indulgence on expense accounts.  The Grill is a total scene, with martini-swilling financiers, unabashed fur-wearing Uptown mavens and trolley carts navigating the dining room with classic prime rib and big old porterhouse steaks.   The room epitomizes the meaning of grand and is a throwback to the mid-century, where you feel like Don Draper will walk through the doors at any moment.  The energy of The Grill is uniquely, unmistakably New York City.  We don’t just like The Grill; we love it. 

On a side note,  if you want to focus solely on your dining companions, the scene in the adjacent Pool Room is serenely, elegantly civilized.  The food is lighter in fare – highbrow fish preparations with a focus on elevated presentation.  Where in The Grill you will be packed shoulder to shoulder in their bar area, The Pool Room has a tucked away lounge area for intimate tete a tetes. 

What to order:  We meant what we said about expense accounts; hopefully you are on one. The Grill has brought back the classic caviar service, chilled seafood platters and old school dishes like Lobster Newburg, prime rib and aged Porterhouse beauties.  All are excellent.  They are not shy with their side dishes either, with a half dozen potato renditions and zucchini prepared four different ways.  We personally swooned over the Dover sole and the caviar vichyssoise.