Some restaurants take time to find their footing. This isn’t the case with Oriana, but then again, this isn’t their first rodeo either. From the team behind The Noortwyck, this Nolita newcomer arrives like a fine-tuned machine, right out of the gates. I was a big fan of the Noortwyck as the neighborhood go-to in the West Village. With its location in this part of Downtown, I expected more of the same — but that’s not what you’re getting here. This isn’t a sequel, but a whole new franchise in itself. This is a first look at Oriana in NYC.

Overview

Oriana is the work of chef Andy Quinn and sommelier Cedric Nicaise. They met years ago, working under Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park, and a friendship was born. In 2022, they opened the Noortwyck together in the West Village. That first restaurant earned them a serious well-earned following. The Noortwyck focused on elevating everyday dishes with a unique execution in a casual atmosphere. Oriana is the more ambitious follow-up. The concept of the restaurant is wood-fire cooking built around a custom wood-burning grill, but make it Michelin-style.

Atmosphere

Let’s first start with how unexpected this restaurant is in the Nolita environs. I love the grit of the neighborhood, where the quaint storefront restaurants are the epitome of casual chic. Oriana is not that at all. It’s a highly polished restaurant that qualifies as grand scale for Nolita. In some ways, it felt like a dialed-down version of Marcel, the Roman Williams high-designed restaurant in the new Sotheby’s. Like Marcel, this is a restaurant that clearly spent as much time on its design as on its menu.

It shows in every detail, from the marble-topped tables to even the luxurious textured linens that convey expensive. I also liked that there was so much room throughout; tables are generously spaced and the high ceilings add a grandeur to the room.

The open kitchen has top of the line equipment and it’s running Michelin-style. The late Charlie Trotter, known for his meticulous kitchen operation and who arguably is the OG of celebrity chefs, would be proud. It’s this elevated culinary vibe that has drawn more foodies and elegant New Yorkers than Tier-2 models and those who are single looking to mingle. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with that either. It likely just won’t be at Oriana, which is a serious restaurant.

Food + Beverage

The menu at Oriana is deceptively simple on paper. Grilled this, and roasted that. But the execution is anything but straightforward, and that’s the entire point. I thought we were going to be good and pass on the bread, but turns out, that’s a non-negotiable that should be on every table. The round loaf of wood-fired goodness is caramelized crunchy on the outside and so light and fluffy inside. It looks generous for two when it arrives, but you quickly realize you’ll need a second round. It’s good enough to stand on its own but it arrives with a chive oil butter that’s closer to the consistency of a smooth Bulgarian yogurt. The yogurt butter is light and slightly tangy, and melts right onto the bread. I don’t remember the last time I was so excited about a loaf of bread, or quite frankly, dreamed of chive oil on butter.

A Tale of Two Mushrooms

We then were at a crossroads of whether to go with the grilled maitake or the morels. Our server definitely steered us to the former, and could not have read the room more accurately. The serving is one petite skewer but it packs a smoky, deeply flavorful and rich punch. There was a pesto-like sauce that brightened up the dish with a little kick. I couldn’t quite place it, but in retrospect review, it was an unexpected almond, horseradish and pickled ramp confection. Once again, I could have had two of these on my own, but every dish continued to wow.

The scallop in hollandaise was another dish that sounded simple, but was multi-layered in flavor. I’m normally repelled by mayo or hollandaise, but in this case, a little went a long way to round out the dish. We were having girl dinner, so while the portion was small, it satiated us. If I was really hungry, we would have had to double down here too.

Then there’s the scallop in hollandaise. This one might convert people who’ve never liked hollandaise in their life. It’s one of the richer plates on the menu, and it earns every bit of that richness — memorable in a way that few sauced dishes manage to be.

Onto the Mains

We got a little creative on the mains as the Waldorf salad caught my eye, and turns out, it works as a strong side dish. This is where the portion was generous, as you receive an entire large plate of red endive. Each piece of lettuce gives you the perfect composition of blue cheese, fig, herb and the secret ingredient — shiso. We ended up opting for the whole fish of the day, which was snapper, in this case. I can confirm that wood-fire makes this fish shine.

The meat though (if I ate meat) is where to go on the menu. The hanger steak is expertly grilled and sliced out. It’s at minimum a good table share or a full meal for two. I love a baked potato, which next time, I’ll have to see if they can make it vegetarian. In its pure Oriana form, there’s a rich bone marrow, and the coal-fired potato sits atop. The point is that there will be an additional visit to Oriana. This is a spot to have in your back pocket that is a crowd pleaser for all.

Cocktails and Wine

The other aspect that makes this a serious restaurant versus one that’s just “cute” is its cocktail and wine menu. Let’s start with the cocktails, which are meant to impress. A reflection of their Eleven Madison pedigree, a few of these will smoke and combust to entertain you. I opted for the Little Lad, which was a strawberry and Pisco concoction. It was a strong opener for the evening. They also have a martini that is garnished with a pickled pea if you’re up for an experiment. I ended up going purist for my second cocktail, with a Belvedere martini up with a twist. Like the food, the execution on the classic martini was flawless. I would go back just for drinks.

The wine list is a Bible, and they don’t skimp either on the 25 or so wines by the glass. The by-the-glass list is one aspect of the Oriana experience that’s very reasonably priced. Also a good value are the half bottles served in a carafe, where the selection is extensive. There are some serious Romanees and Volnay on the list.

By the bottle though, sky is the limit and they are not coming to play. I always judge a Champagne selection by whether they have Selosse on the menu. In case you were curious, they have three on the wine list.

Service

The service at Oriana NYC was polished, attentive, and unfussy in exactly the way a room like this should be. You can tell that this is an experienced team. Where they excel is in the knowledge of the food, beverage and wine to make informed recommendations. Our server had us pegged from the start and was batting 1000 on recommendations. They’ve hit the right balance that shows off their fine dining experience, but made it align with the vibe of Oriana.

Overall 8.3/10

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FAQs

Q: Who is behind Oriana NYC?

A: Chef Andy Quinn and sommelier Cedric Nicaise, the team behind The Noortwyck are behind their new venture, Oriana NYC.  They go further back though then The Noortwyck; they are both Eleven Madison Park alumni.

Q: What should I order at Oriana NYC?

A: The grilled maitake with horseradish ramp oil is a dark horse at Oriana NYC. Also the Waldorf salad should be on the table for presentation alone. For mains order  the whole fish of the day. Do not skip the bread.

Q: Is Oriana good for a special occasion?

A: Yes — Oriana NYC is perfect for a special occasion. The room, the wine list, and the level of execution all make it a strong choice for a milestone dinner.

Q: Where is Oriana NYC located?

A: Oriana NYC is located at 174 Mott Street, on the corner of Broome and Mott, in Nolita.

Q: What are the hours of operation of Oriana NYC?

A: The hours of operation of Oriana NYC are as follows: