There’s a unique kind of restaurant that reminds you that New York is the greatest city in the world. But we’re not talking the Michelin-star chefs, (although, this is where they dine and drink) or show-stopping Roman Williams designed interiors. We’re not even talking about the impossible-to-obtain reservations that might as well be to a private club, a la Eighty Six. Of course these places also make New York special. However, New York is a city that doesn’t need to try too hard. New York has a confidence that’s effortless. And when you find those neighborhood restaurants that epitomize cool, it gets you excited to live in New York again. Cafe Mulberry has that New York magic.
Atmosphere
Cafe Mulberry is so French it hurts, and yet so New York at the same time. It’s the type of place that shows you how international and cosmopolitan the city is. Down a residential street in Nolita, tucked into a townhome, you feel like you’ve stumbled upon a gem of a place on the Left Bank of Paris. Cafe Mulberry has maybe a dozen tables and no bar in the restaurant itself. Restaurants of this footprint are becoming more rare in the environment of high rents in the city. When the weather cooperates, they have an outdoor space that feels like a secret garden. The garden is the spot for a weekend brunch, and hopefully one day, weekday meet ups.
A Dining Room that Defines Quaint
The dining room defines quaint; it’s literally tiny, but in a charming way that you would call it snug. You’re semi on top of your dining companions (in a good way), but not on top of other tables, which is an art to achieve. Not that you’d mind to be close to your neighbors, because the crowd that frequents Cafe Mulberry is as part of the atmosphere as the low-lit dining room itself. The crowd is the New York crowd you’d hope for: a beautiful, fashion-forward room with very few tourists and a lot of chic locals. The restaurant and bar have become a low-key hangout for celebrities like Rita Ora and Ed Sheeran, who call this their neighborhood spot.
Bar Mulberry
Downstairs, the bar is its own destination entirely. It’s open late, filled with industry chefs, the occasional celebrity, and an unreasonable number of genuinely pretty people. If you’re not ready to go home after dinner, ask the team at the restaurant nicely to walk you downstairs. This is a bouncer situation, as the likes of Leo and Brad have been known to stop by. The room delivers; it’s not a club, but an elevated yet fun and casual bar. The lights are even lower in the bar than the restaurant and the DJ cranks up the music. For me, Bar Mulberry is the evolution for people my age who remember Pink Elephant and Cain.
Food + Beverage
For me, when I’m going to a French bistro, the sign of a talented chef is the ability to make the perfect salade vert. It’s an art to get just right, and it says everything you need to know about a kitchen. Cafe Mulberry’s sets the standard for what’s to come with butter lettuce, watercress, soft herbs, and the quintessential vinaigrette. It’s the kind of dish that’s deceptively simple and nearly impossible to get exactly right. We ordered the bread, butter, and radish basket — which is a menu item, but so generously portioned that you’re happy to pay for it. It’s not one note either, but instead, a selection of fresh-baked French breads, high quality butter with fleur du sel, and a selection of various radishes. I always appreciated a mandolined watermelon radish and a traditional cherry bell, which in this case had a nice spice to it.
The Mains
The loup de mer, cooked just right and drizzled with a green herb sauce and is the type of dish I could eat once a week. We also ordered the seasonal cavatelli with lobster and corn, which was a good share for the table. It was homey but elevated, and somehow both light and decadent at once. I really enjoyed it while we were eating it that evening, but thought of it again the next night. The food is the kind of consistent French fare that you make your neighborhood bistro. I know it’s now on my go-to list, and I live on the Upper West Side, a good 35 minutes away. But the Uber ride is well-worth it.
A Wine List Worth Noting
The wine list is small but highly curated, with selections that skip right past the obvious and predictable. This isn’t a list built for people who want to recognize every label; it’s built for people who want to be surprised. We ordered a Burgundy wine that my friend (who is part of the Tastevin, the society of Burgundy collectors) had not ever heard of. Turns out, this Premier Cru gem was originally made for the Major Food Group guys, so technically, it doesn’t exist for the public to purchase. Cafe Mulberry got their hands on some of these bottles, and it went perfectly with the fish.
Service
I would characterize the service as genuine, attentive, and unfussy. The staff is cool, but not too cool for school. You’re not going to find any attitude, but a team, who while working in a tight space, works hard and works together. Chad, the sommelier, came out of retirement (he is no older than 35) to work with the owner, and is clearly passionate about what they’re creating. There are off-menu wines, so if you want something special (or something between a $145 well-priced Burgundy and a $3200 bottle of Margeaux), he’s your guy. Overall, the service here understands the room it’s working in. Nothing rushed, nothing precious. This is exactly what a tiny French dining room in Nolita should feel like, and the type of service that makes you want Cafe Mulberry to be your neighborhood spot.
Overall 8.4/10
Cafe Mulberry is both Paris and New York at its best.
Other NYC Reviews You’ll Like
Bistro Ha – A Follow Up to Ha’s Snack Bar
Cote’s New Venture – Bar Chimera
Graciela NYC – Don Julio’s Sister Restaurant in the West Village
FAQs
Q: Where is Cafe Mulberry located?
A: Cafe Mulberry is located at 240 Mulberry St, New York, NY 10012.
Q: What are the hours of operation of Cafe Mulberry?
A: The hours of operation of Cafe Mulberry are as follows:
| Thursday | 5–10 PM |
| Friday | 10 AM–11 PM |
| Saturday | 10 AM–11 PM |
| Sunday | 10 AM–5 PM |
| Monday | Closed |
| Tuesday | 5–10 PM |
| Wednesday | 5–10 PM |
Q: Is Café Mulberry good for a date?
A: Exceptionally. The room is small, the lighting is flattering, and the vibe is romantic without trying too hard.
Q: Is the bar worth visiting on its own?
A: Yes — arguably a destination in its own right. Late-night, industry crowd, excellent people-watching.
Q: Is it hard to get a reservation?
A: Given the size of the room and the caliber of the crowd, book ahead.
Q: Is this a tourist spot?
A: Not really — and that’s part of the appeal. This one belongs to the locals.
