San Sebastián is also known as “Donostia to the Basques” to those who call it home. It sits about 20 kilometers from the French border on Spain’s northern coast. And most importantly, it plays by its own rules. Skip the sprawl and the crowds you’d find in other famous Spanish cities like Barcelona or Madrid. San Sebastian is a city for long lunches, cold cider, and a beach walk before dinner. And, it has one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars per square mile anywhere in the world. The food culture alone will have you booking a trip annually. Whether you’re planning a quick Labor Day escape or a longer fall trip, this is where to be in San Sebastian.
Where to Stay
Hotel: Akelarre – Relais & Châteaux
Location: Mount Igueldo, San Sebastián, Spain
Akelarre is a 5-star design hotel built into the slopes of Mount Igueldo, overlooking the Bay of Biscay. Chef Pedro Subijana, holder of three Michelin stars, is behind the property. And it shows in every detail, from the 22 minimalist rooms to the full wellness spa (featuring a number of treatments, including phytoaromatherapy). Room service runs around the clock, with a rotating menu of hot dishes and snacks, and every room looks out over the water. Book a suite if you want a private plunge pool and terrace to go with the view.
Hotel: Hotel Maria Cristina
Location: Urumea River, San Sebastián, Spain
Opened in 1912 along the Urumea River, Hotel Maria Cristina is an iconic property, designed by French architect Charles Mewès. It turns into the epicenter of the city every September. This is when the San Sebastián International Film Festival brings in stars who have included Audrey Hepburn and Julia Roberts. Standard rooms lean soft, with pastel blue and neutral palettes, ornate headboards, and plush super-king beds. Suites go bigger, with grand living areas, high ceilings, chandeliers, marble bathrooms, and views over the river or the city.
Hotel: Nobu Hotel San Sebastian
Location: Paseo Mirakontxa, San Sebastián, Spain
Set on Paseo Mirakontxa, overlooking La Concha Bay, Nobu Hotel San Sebastian is a boutique property with approximately 20 rooms. The rooms blend Japanese minimalism with plush comforts, and several have private terraces and sea views. The infinity rooftop pool is worth the trip alone, and the signature Nobu restaurant serves the fusion menu the brand is known for. It’s a 10-minute walk down the beach to Old Town — so pack sneakers you don’t mind getting sandy.
Where to Dine And Drink
Restaurant: Akelarre
Location: Mount Igueldo, San Sebastián
The hotel’s flagship restaurant carries the same three Michelin stars as its chef, Pedro Subijana. And needless to say, Akelarre Restaurant has become a pilgrimage site for serious eaters. Expect dishes like Idiazabal cheese with anchovies, or sheep tenderloin with milk whey and unleavened bread topped with wild pasture herbs. Reserve well ahead, and even consider a multi-course tasting menus rather than an à la carte experience.
Restaurant: Arzak
Location: Alto de Miracruz, San Sebastián
Family-run since 1897, Arzak curates tasting menus built around modern Basque cooking, served inside a multistory brick building with the dining room on the main floor. Upstairs sits a wine cellar stocked with more than 100,000 bottles, along with the kitchen’s test lab. The plating is the kind you photograph before you eat, and the sommelier will steer you through the list with real expertise.
Restaurant: Rekondo (Chef Iñaki)
Location: Monte Igueldo, San Sebastián
Arrieta runs the kitchen at Rekondo, a romantic spot for upscale Basque cooking with a seasonal menu covering entrées, fish, meat, and dessert. Sit on the leafy terrace for bay views, or revel in a delicious meal in a cozy setting inside. The wine list is a 340-page hardback, covering bottles from around the world, with real depth in Spanish vintages that stretch back to the early 1900s.
Pintxos and Txakoli — true Basque staples.
Location: Old Town, San Sebastián
For a faster and more casual way to eat, head to the two main historic indoor food markets, Mercado de La Bretxa and Mercado de San Martín, for pintxos. These bite-sized snacks with toppings like ham, cheese, fish or tortilla, are piled onto crusty bread or threaded onto skewers like edible art. Pair them with a glass of txakoli, the slightly fizzy Basque white wine. Stand at the bar, sample multiple dishes, and end the meal with decadent Basque cheesecake featuring a crustless, high-heat baked dessert with a darkly caramelized top and gooey center.
What to Do
The Beaches
Location: San Sebastián Bay
Three beaches curve around the bay, and each has its own personality. La Concha is the postcard shot, a crescent of sand with an elegant promenade running alongside it. Zurriola pulls in the surf crowd, and it’s a fine spot to sit and pretend you know what makes a good wave. Ondarreta is the calmer, family-friendly stretch if you’d rather read a book or spend time with your kids than catch a swell.
Book a Cider House Tour (Sagardotegia)
Location: Astigarraga, near San Sebastián
Just outside the city in Astigarraga, the cider houses of Gipuzkoa pour natural cider, or sagardoa, straight from massive wooden barrels. Peak season runs January through April, and most houses offer guided tastings and tours. It’s a proper Basque tradition and one of the more social ways to spend an afternoon.
Enjoy a scenic stroll via an E-Bike tour
The city is easy to cover on foot, but an e-bike tour is a scenic way to reach the farther viewpoints and beachside neighborhoods without wearing yourself out. It’s an especially good call if you’re short on time or want to see more of the coastline in a single afternoon.
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Nobu: A New Hotel in San Sebastian
FAQs
Q: When’s the best time to visit San Sebastian?
A: June or September. Crowds thin out considerably in September, and June skips the peak summer heat. July and August still deliver the classic Spanish summer experience if that’s what you’re after.
Q: Is San Sebastian walkable?
A: Yes, it’s an easy city to cover on foot. If you want to move faster or reach the outer viewpoints and beaches, an e-bike tour is worth booking. You don’t need to rent a car if you don’t want to.
Q: Are there Ubers or rideshare available in the city?
A: Taxis are hard to get by and Uber can be unreliable. The city buses run like clockwork and are loved by locals.
