After a long hiatus, the old Flora space at the Breuer is, some would say, better than ever. Marcel has arrived with a glow — from design firm Roman & Williams, and cuisine from the same team at Mercerie. This is a first look.

Overview

We’re not going to bury the lede on this one. Marcel is one of the best new restaurants to open in New York City. It’s not a fly-by restaurant either, that you go to once and then move onto the next greatest thing. Instead, Marcel enters rarified air on the Upper East Side as a classic in the making.

Atmosphere

The expectations are high when Roman + Wiliams is involved in a project. There’s also an expectation of the signature aesthetic in the DNA of their projects. So naturally, I walked in thinking I’d seen it all before at Coucou or Mercerie. But in the historic Bauer building, they’ve built something special, not only within their portfolio of design projects, but in New York City. Flora Bar, the previous restaurant was a stunner, but the new Marcel lands as one of the most unique and stunning places in the city.

The bones of the building are dramatic to start, with the brutalist concrete and soaring atrium ceilings. However, what Roman and Williams has done is combine unexpected materials like warm wood, curvature of the booths and dramatic lighting.

At Marcel, it’s also about the unexpected details, like the modern yet feminine flower arrangements, custom plates, serve ware and glasses. Essentially, you can buy anything and everything you see. You’re also encouraged to walk around and see the cases filled with jewelry (which looks like it’s out of the Byzantine area) and pottery. It feels like a museum/art gallery — a succession-period home. The whole theme makes sense, when you remind yourself you are at Sotheby’s auction house, where people come to drop major coin on art and luxury goods. Marcel is an extension of that concept.

The other thing to note is that depending on where you sit in the various sections of the restaurant, there will be a different vibe. The bar is for dining and is lively, as is the adjoining front area. The back section feels like you’re tucked away, yet still with a prime view of the buzz. In a few weeks, the garden will be open, and it will be the place for outdoor dining on the Upper East Side. No matter where you sit though, you’re in one of the best people-watching spots in the city.

Food + Beverage

The vibe and the service (more on that later) get such high marks, that it doesn’t really matter what you’re eating. But the food at Marcel is very good, bordering and at times crossing into excellent territory. The first indicator of greatness is their French bread and butter. If you really want to do it up, you can do a supplement for the epaulette butter. The bread comes out piping warm, and it may be just one of the best parts of the meal.

The cuisine does right by its French heritage, with each dish precisely executed. There’s nothing that’s going to smoke or combust, but it’s food you would come back for again and again. There’s absolutely butter in the food, but it’s not overpowering, and there are plenty of healthier choices on the list. I started out with oysters with a granite mignonette, and the scallop with lemon slices. The deviled egg makes a light yet decadent dish, without an overpaying mayo and a freshness with the radish. I had the cod, which was more like a warm brandade that was savory yet once again, light. The spinach was an unexpected dark horse, where besides being perfectly cooked without being overcooked, had so much flavor. I would go back just for the spinach. To bridge the main and the dessert, I would double down on the savory cheese souffle and the chocolate souffle, which is a production. The chocolate cake was something special, so save room to sample as many desserts as you can. Speaking of which, as an ode to Mercerie, there’s a patisserie counter where you can get chocolate covered madeleines and other perfections to go.

Service

Impeccable. Confident. Familiar. Marcel built a dream team of veterans from iconic haunts Polo Bar, Sartiano’s and Raoul’s. It feels like they’re building their legacy while having a good time. The result is service that is like watching theater any evening in the dining room, as the maitre’d effortlessly greets everyone from the everyday millionaires to the real hitters. The people who work here are enough reason to want to be a regular.

Overall: 9/10

Marcel is a New York classic in the making.

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FAQs

Q: Where is Marcel restaurant in NYC located?

A: Marcel NYC is located on the Upper East Side at the new Sotheby’s building. Its address is 945 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10021.

Q: What are the hours of operation of Marcel NYC?

A: Marcel is open for lunch and dinner. Their hours of operation are as follows:

DINNER SERVICE
Monday – Sunday
5pm – 10pm

LUNCH SERVICE
Wednesday – Sunday
11:30am – 2:30pm

Q: What kind of food does Marcel NYC serve?

A: Marcel NYC serves French continental cuisine. Expect to find classics like cheese and chocolate souffle, Dover sole and updated classics.