We were big fans of The Lion, and for that matter, Dan Abrams too. So, when the buzz was that the downtown version of Polo Bar was in the works as their next venture, you bet we were stoked. But does Danny’s live up to its hype?

Overview

Dan Abrams has done it before. The Lion was a genuine scene, so we had every reason to expect Danny’s to be the next great American classic. We really wanted it to be, as we always cheer for Dan Abrams’ projects. Unfortunately, in our opinion, Danny’s misses the mark, and we don’t understand why the reviews are so good. It’s like The Emperors New Clothes and maybe we’re the only ones that see Danny’s is all hype.

Atmosphere

Danny’s was conceived as an old-school New York room — banquettes, faded photographs, and a hand-painted mural to elevate the design. But surprisingly, the room felt like nothing special. For me it could have been any restaurant from Chelsea to Hell’s Kitchen with white tablecloths on top. The whole restaurant is essentially one room separating the bar and restaurant. Unlike other classic institutions like Polo Bar that give you a rich (both literally and figuratively) feeling, Danny’s felt like it lacked decor vibe and soul. The dining area just felt like a room lacking in warmth. It does not give you that feeling that something is happening here and you are lucky to be in it.

One area Danny’s does excel on atmosphere is the crowd. Overall, it’s relatively attractive people. On any given night, you will spot a cable news anchor, a media lawyer, and at least one person you recognize from a Page Six item.

Food

The glance at the menu at Danny’s is likable, and it’s in the theme of American food — the cuisine of the moment in NYC. I had high hopes that this would be another Corner Store with Chef Ed Tinoco, who came up through the Alinea Group, at the helm. The elevated American comfort food serves up a few smart twists, like the ham and cheese hot pockets. I love childhood favorites, and going low-brow with a twist that makes it brilliantly high-brow. Surprisingly though, as cool as the menu sounded, the food wasn’t that fresh. The hamachi that every influencer is talking about, especially wasn’t fresh or melt-in-your-mouth the night we were there. I almost always love crispy rice sushi, but once again, the seafood didn’t taste top quality. Danny’s Caesar should have been a revelation with its eponymous name, but was forgettable by the end of the meal. My friend had a burger, so fared better for her entree, but my branzino was just fair. We were happy to have the agnolotti on the table, but it couldn’t measure up to a top Italian restaurant. There wasn’t a dish that I would specifically come back for, which I think is needed to make it on the NYC restaurant scene nowadays.

Bar Scene

If I had to go back again, it may be to drop into the front bar for a drink, if I were in the neighborhood. Danny’s bar, with its classic cocktails and all-American wine list, is competent. The cocktail list does what it promises: reimagined classics, nothing offensive. However, there’s also nothing that makes you want to order a second before you finish the first. Therefore, the bar in my opinion, is not a destination. The crowd is decent, but not enough for me to take a girlfriend there to meet people.

The Bottom Line

Here is what baffles us, and we say this as people who genuinely like Dan Abrams and have respected his restaurant instincts: the reviews. Not a skeptical word among them. Seeing Danny’s NYC as “One of the best new restaurants of the year” or “The best American food I’ve had all year” makes me realize this influencer stuff has gone too far.

In my opinion, this is The Emperor’s New Clothes problem. New York has had it before with restaurants that draw famous names and generated heat before the cooking had fully earned it. We are not saying Danny’s is bad. We are saying that it is not the place those reviews describe. It has the ingredients — the owner, the chef, the concept, the crowd. Time will tell if Danny’s NYC sticks around for the medium term.