Some things come full circle, and not just the team that is behind the Esmero popup by the Alinea team in Chicago. In lieu of hosting Esmero in their compound in the West Loop, Alinea chose one of the most iconic spots in Chicago. There is exactly one address in Chicago dining that comes loaded with this much history — and that’s 816 W. Armitage Avenue.
Real foodies know Chef Charlie Trotter, the OG of Michelin celebrity chefs before it was a thing. Chef Trotter put the first-ever table in a working kitchen and rewrote what American fine dining could be. For many chefs, Chef Trotter was the icon who had the most meaningful impact on their careers. That’s the case of Alinea Group founder, Grant Achatz, who formerly trained under Chef Trotter at this exact location. However, after Chef Trotter’s unexpected passing, the building sat mostly dark for over a decade. Now his son, Dylan, has handed the kitchen to the Alinea Group for a special limited-time Esmero pop-up. This limited run (until November this year) is a modern Mexican tasting menu residency, helmed by Executive Chef Adair Canacasco.
A Special Place in My Culinary Life
For me, also in the full circle theme, Charlie Trotter’s was formative in my love for food. I had the privilege to dine twice at the restaurant in 2001 and 2002, both times in the famed kitchen table. I will never forget how immaculate the environment was — even an OCD home kitchen isn’t as tidy. Chef Trotter ran a brigade setup, which means each chef had a specific specialized role. You could hear a pin drop in Chef Trotter’s kitchen, where each person was hyper-focused on their task. Back in the day, Chef Trotter could strike fear in Gordon Ramsey, but his quest for perfection is what earned him his 2 Stars. Beyond the rating, the result was magic on every single plate. I can still remember a foie gras dish that had individual grapefruit pulp that was precisely candied. Even today, his techniques would be special. So for me, it didn’t matter what they were serving; it meant something sentimental to be back in the famed space.
Atmosphere
Walking into the old Charlie Trotter’s is walking into a memory that’s been kept exactly intact. I really had to do a double take into the attics of my mind, as it’s relatively the same as I remember. The dark-walled reception still doubles as an intimate bar, and the Brazilian cherry wood floors and 20-foot ceilings are original. The balcony above still peers down over the room, the way it always has. The burgundy carpet remains, along with the beige textured walls and the furniture. It didn’t feel like anything has been renovated into something unrecognizable.
While we were having Mexican cuisine, there was still even an air of reverence in the room. Of course, this wasn’t tacos and margaritas, but rather a tasting menu. The crowd also could have been the same people dining at Trotter’s 25 years ago. People were there to experience culinary greatness. Overall, the Esmero residency space feels less like a new restaurant, and more like Trotter’s house lending itself out for the evening.
My one note is that Charlie Trotter’s is going to reopen in January 2027. While I loved the experience and nostalgia, the dining scene today is completely different. I think that there’s an opportunity to take the pedigree and genetics (Dylan is the spitting image of his father) and to do something with his own unique mark.
Food + Beverage
The menu is formal at Esmero, set up in a 14-course tasting menu that stays true to the assignment of Mexican cuisine. Chef Canacasco, who has been with the Alinea Group for years, builds a menu that respects Mexican tradition. The thought behind the menu is based on geography and ingredients. The ingredients were core to guiding the menu, which began with corn as a foundation. It moved onto the coast with ingredients from that region, then returned to traditional mole.
What struck me, was that apart from a generous serving of caviar infladita at the start, there wasn’t fusion influence to the food. But back to the caviar — this opener was the kind of playful, technique-driven bite that flexes its pedigree. This dish, as well as the scallop aguachile with honeydew and habanero, was a highlight for me. The experience felt like a celebration of traditional Mexican cooking with a slightly modern interpretation. At times, I wished there was more creativity or modern influence, but overall I was happy to have the Esmero food experience.
On beverage, they had some interesting Mexican wines, so we went for the local. I trend towards high-end French and Italian, but the pinot noir-esque Mexico wine was good enough to have two glasses. They didn’t quite have their bar up and running as we were one of the first to experience Esmero, but I was assured it was coming soon.
Service
The service at Esmero is the one modern aspect that visually is distinguished from the original Charlie Trotter’s. Not that the OG Charlie Trotter’s staff wasn’t cool. But the Esmero team very much gives off that vibe, even in their dress and the casual tattoos. It was like an orchestrated show, where various members of the kitchen team would finish a dish table-side, or go into a detailed explanation. The staff clearly understand they’re stewarding something more than a meal.
On the components that tick the boxes, the servers are knowledgeable, and pacing is a deliberate team effort. It’s a tasting menu, but there’s a genuine interaction with the team that keeps the evening from tipping into too formal.
Overall: 8.3/10
First and foremost — I was really happy to be back in the Charlie Trotter’s space. Secondly, I enjoyed my meal. Did it change my life the way Charlie Trotter’s did? Well, that expectation is unrealistic. However, I was happy to have experienced Esmero.
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FAQs
Q: Where is Esmero located?
A: Esmero is located inside the original Charlie Trotter’s space at 816 W. Armitage Ave, Lincoln Park, Chicago.
Q: Who’s behind Esmero?
A: Esmero is a residency from the Alinea Group, led by chef Grant Achatz — a Charlie Trotter’s alum. The kitchen is overseen by Executive Chef Adair Canacasco. Trotter’s son, Dylan, who now owns the space, partnered with the Alinea Group to bring it back to life.
Q: What kind of food does Esmero at Charlie Trotter’s serve?
A: A modern Mexican tasting menu that draws on traditional technique and ingredients, reimagined with the Alinea Group’s precision.
Q: How long is the Esmero residency running?
A: The Esmero residency at Charlie Trotter’s is running through November 2026.
Q: Is Charlie Trotter’s going to reopen?
A: It gives us goosebumps to say this, but yes, Charlie Trotter’s is going to reopen. The restaurant will be under its original banner but this time, run by Charlie Trotter’s son, Dylan. Currently the date we’re hearing is January 2027.
