You know your way around the kitchen, but even for skilled home cooks, soufflée isn’t easy. That is, until you take on this recipe, which almost guarantees that your soufflée will be that perfect puffed-up confection. So, go for the savory version with cheese, and double down with chocolate for dessert.
A Shoutout to Marcel NYC
I can’t believe I’ve been in New York City long enough to see the Upper East Side become the cool neighborhood. With the opening of spots like Chez Fifi and now Marcel in the new Sotheby’s on Madison, I find myself suggesting we stay Uptown more often than not nowadays. I credit Marcel for bringing soufflé back to the Upper East Side, after the long-gone but not forgotten Swifty’s retired to Florida. Blink though, and you’ll miss the soufflé at Marcel, as it’s discreetly on the side dish menu. I personally think they need to bring it front and center, to at least the starters. But you heard it here; the side dishes are dark horses at Marcel and deserve your attention.
One place the soufflé isn’t relegated to a side piece is dessert at Marcel. Their chocolate soufflé is an all-out production and deserves its own Instagram page.
The Perfect Cheese Soufflé
If the chocolate soufflé is the showstopper dessert, the cheese soufflé is the opening act that steals the whole evening. It arrives before the main course, announces itself at the table, and leaves everyone recalibrating where to allocate their appetite. It is near impossible to resist a soufflé.
A Few Tips
Here is what people don’t tell you about the savory soufflé: it is somehow more impressive than the sweet one, and arguably easier to pull off. There’s no chocolate to temper, no liqueur to measure out. Just butter, flour, milk, egg, and — critically — a truly good cheese. The technique is the same. The result is its own thing entirely.
Our soufflé recipe is a classic combination of Gruyère and a touch of Parmesan. The Gruyère gives a depth and that nutty quality that is basically the whole point. The Parmesan adds a sharpness and helps your soufflé rise with the golden crust it builds on the sides of the ramekin. A pinch of nutmeg and a whisper of Dijon round out this soufflé recipe. These ingredients are the difference between a basic cheese soufflé and a remarkable cheese soufflé. You’re not a basic b**** so we know this soufflé recipe will be your go-to.
Ingredients
For the Ramekins
Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C) with a rack positioned in the lower third. This gives the soufflé room to rise without browning too quickly on top. Pull your eggs from the fridge at least an hour ahead. Also grate your cheeses now; pre-grated will not melt properly and this is no place for shortcuts.
Directions
Coat the ramekins with Parmesan, not sugar. Butter four 8-oz ramekins thoroughly with softened butter, then coat the insides with finely grated Parmesan. Rotate each one so the cheese adheres in a full, even layer — this is both flavor and structure. The cheese crust is what lets the soufflé grip and climb. Tap out any excess and place in the freezer.
The Bechamel is the Key
Next, build a proper béchamel. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and whisk in the flour. Cook for two full minutes, stirring constantly — you want the raw flour taste completely cooked out. Slowly pour in the warm milk, whisking the whole time, and cook until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about three to four minutes. Season assertively with salt, white pepper, nutmeg, and the Dijon.
Once you have béchamel set, add the cheese, then the yolks. Remove the pan from heat. Stir in the Gruyère and half the Parmesan until fully melted and smooth. Let it cool for five minutes — this step matters; adding yolks to a scorching-hot base scrambles them. Whisk in the yolks one at a time until fully incorporated. Taste again and adjust seasoning. The base should taste intensely cheesy and slightly over-seasoned; the whites will dilute it.
It’s Time to Whip the Egg Whites
The next step is to whip the whites to stiff, glossy peaks. This part was intimidating to me until I broke out my stand mixer, and now it’s actually the fun part. In a spotlessly clean bowl — wipe it with a cut lemon and dry it if there’s any doubt about residue — beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until foamy. Continue beating until you have firm, glossy peaks that hold their shape when you lift the whisk. You are looking for structure, not dryness. Stop before they turn grainy.
Fold in the Egg Whites
Stir a large spoonful of the whites into the cheese base to lighten it. Then add the remaining whites in two additions, folding with wide, sweeping strokes from the bottom of the bowl upward. Stop as soon as the mixture is uniform — a few streaks are preferable to a deflated batter. Speed and confidence matter more than precision here.
Fill, groove, and top
Divide the batter among the chilled ramekins, filling each to about ½ inch below the rim. Scatter the remaining Parmesan over the tops. Run your thumb around the interior edge of each ramekin — this small channel encourages the soufflé to rise straight and tall. Place on a baking sheet and slide into the oven without hesitation.
It’s Time to Bake
Bake the soufflé at 375°F for 13–15 minutes. The tops should be deep golden and the soufflés fully risen; a slight wobble in the center is correct and desirable. Do not open the oven door before the 12-minute mark. Serve immediately — they are at their peak the moment they hit the table, and your guests should already be seated.
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