Capella Ubud: The Jungle Camp Where Nothing Is Safari Khaki

Rachel Singh, Staff Writer

This is a case of a hotel group coming out of nowhere, and opening some of the top hotels in the world. Capella is out for world domination – or, at least to take on the heavies in ultra-luxury places to stay. This is a preview of their Bangkok hotel.

Photo courtesy of Capella Ubud.

About Capella Ubud

We know you’ve done Bali. The beach clubs in Seminyak, the yoga retreats, the rice terrace selfie. But, imagine a camp where every tent has its own pool and backstory. That’s Capella Ubud. The first clue that you’ve arrived somewhere unusual? Brass monkey statues peeking out of the foliage — a sure sign that designer Bill Bensley has been at play.

Capella Ubud is good for design lovers, adventurous minds, families, and anyone who has had enough of beige villas. With only a couple dozen tents, the camp feels exclusive and would make a great location for a full buyout on a group trip.

The Backstory

Capella Ubud may have been intended as one thing, but became a very different hotel once it was fully built. Initially, the project started out as a hundred-room property. However, Bensley convinced the owner that “minimal intervention” was the better path. They scaled down, and the new priority was to keep every tree. So, not one tree was cut down during construction. That’s why you’ll sometimes find a palm tree growing right up through a terrace. To decide where each tent would go, the team built bamboo mockups on site, so the existing landscape would stay intact.

The camp, which opened in 2018, is a tribute to the early European settlers who came to Bali in the 1800s. It’s almost a love letter to their sense of adventure. The camp blends among the rainforest, rice paddies and the sacred Wos River in Keliki, a traditional Balinese artists’ village.

Photo courtesy of Capella Ubud.

The Tents

Let’s be clear: this isn’t traditional camping, and it even goes well beyond glamping. There’s no sleeping bag, no flashlight and no crawling out at 3 a.m. Capella Ubud has 22 one-bedroom tents and one two-bedroom lodge. Each has its own private pool, and comes in rich, dark colors. Everything is decorated with Balinese crafts. Each tent tells the story of a 19th-century character — an architect, an officer, a trader or a photographer.

The details are where Bensley design really shines. You enter through carved wooden doors. Inside is a four-poster king bed, draped in netting and wrapped in Bali’s black-and-red checkered poleng cloth. The floors are dimpled teak, made by hand in Central Java. On top of the heated private pool with jungle views, the tents all offer an outdoor deck with a daybed, a stunning copper bathtub, and showers (both indoors and out).

Photo courtesy of Capella Ubud.

The Food

The main dining room, Mads Lange, serves Indonesian and international dishes, cooked with hand-harvested vegetables, spices, herbs and poultry from nearby farms. The dining room overlooks the jungle.

Now, about room service. Forget the silver cloche on a squeaky trolley. Here, in-tent dining arrives in stacked tiffin boxes (the traditional Indian lunch boxes), which become your own private buffet, made entirely to your liking. Your Culturist (i.e. butler) carries the meal to your tent and can serve it on your private terrace. Don’t skip it. When evening comes, join other adventurers at the Campfire to indulge in comforting camp snacks and live storytelling or a nostalgic film.

Photo courtesy of Capela Ubud.

The Rituals

Beyond your tent, the camp is built around rituals, and you’ll want to say yes to all of them.

In The Officers’ Tent, afternoon tea, evening cocktails and canapés have become a daily ritual. Think of the Officers’ Tent as the camp’s living room, filled with vintage armchairs and explorer memorabilia. Tea is served along a chic tiered étagère of sweet and savory bites. Between bites, you can shoot a game of pool or pick a book from the library.

Capella Culturists can plan everything for you, from sunrise outings or yoga in the fields to Balinese dance lessons or evening ceremonies. Everything is designed to show you Bali through meaningful encounters.

The Verdict

Capella Ubud is maximalist and theatrical, a touch eccentric, and very carefully built around the jungle that came first. Want a beige villa and an infinity-pool selfie? Bali has plenty of those. Want a memorable place to stay? Book a tent.

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FAQs

Q: Where is Capella Ubud located?

A: Jl. Raya Dalem, Banjar Triwangsa, Desa Keliki, Kecamatan Tegallalang, Ubud, Gianyar, Bali 80561, Indonesia.

Q: How far is Capella Ubud from the airport?

A: It’s about 20 minutes from central Ubud and 90 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport.

Q: Who designed Capella Ubud?

A: Bill Bensley, the Bangkok-based designer.

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