| When set in one of the world’s most beautiful places, a hotel must earn its real estate. The Atacama is a legit beauty, too. After spotting it from the moon, Neil Armstrong brought wives #1 and #2 to visit. If it had been around for his visits, Tierra Atacama would have been his place to stay. |
Nostalgic History
I’ve been going to the Atacama Desert for the past 14 years, and I will say Mr. Armstrong had it right. Even after 140+ countries, the Atacama is still one of the most beautiful places I’ve set foot on in earth. It’s a place where the desert is more than just sand dunes, though those are stunning too. You have mountains that are purple against the bluest skies in the world. If you’re lucky you’ll get a safe view of volcanos that have been around for millions of years erupting in the background. In the high planes you’ll find lagoons, with water more turquoise than the Caribbean. In a word, it’s surreal that a place that is this stunning is still so unspoiled. You earn your adventurer marks when you add Atacama to your passport.
A Dream to See the Salt Flats
I found myself recently back in Atacama because I had the lucky chance to fulfill my dream to see the Bolivian Salt Flats. Yes I could have gone the tourist route to check the box and fly into the flats directly from La Paz, take a few photos and call it a day. But instead, the Atacama in Chile gave me the inspiration to see more of the stunning vistas and challenge myself to hike mountains I would normally would shy away from.
I have to credit Explora for opening up this world to me on my first visit 14 years ago. It was on my trip to Explora to Easter Island and Atacama that opened this world to me. The experience also made me see that I didn’t need to go at it alone, the way I had in life. I could rely on friends to support. But alas that’s another story to write, that’s only been partially shared on an old Huff Post article. The point is that this region inspires you to open your mind and your heart. I wasn’t with Explora on this visit, as a lot changes in 14 years. Instead, for who I was with, and where I’m at in life, Tierra Atacama was my home base.
The Lodge to Start a Bucket List Journey to Bolivia
On my adventure were two close girlfriends who were first-timers to the Atacama. We were signed up with Explora for the Bolivia trek, as they are the only show in town to do it right. However their policy at the time was a required acclimatization for a few days at their Atacama property. I say this with all love and respect, but starting out at the Explora lodge in Atacama would have created unnecessary friction with my friends. The accommodations and food just don’t align in Atacama with the extraordinary experience that they provide on the Bolivian side of the border. It wasn’t easy to make it all work out but I did get a special dispensation for my friends to forgo the required 2 nights at Explora.
The strife I went through was well worth it for Tierra, which is hands down the place to stay for couples who want to be social, solo travelers, and groups of friends. It made a world of difference to be in the luxurious cocoon of Tierra with my girlfriends to start the trip. It doesn’t matter if Tierra was in Sedona, Yellowstone or Nevada. Tierra meets the mark of luxe in any market.
Atmosphere
Tierra is set on a former cattle corral at the edge of the downtown area of San Pedro de Atacama.The 32-room lodge’s modern steel and glass house architecture somehow naturally fits into the backdrop of the environs. Indoors, Adobe-toned walls, natural woods and neutrals reflect the landscape. The whole property is oriented toward Licancabur, the near-perfect volcanic cone that dominates the skyline.
From the moment you arrive, the mood is relaxed, sociable and genuine. Guests trade stories from the day’s excursions over drinks, and nobody seems in a hurry. It feels less like a hotel and more like a beautifully run house party in the desert.
Location-wise, Tierra is a 12 minute or so walk into town during the day, and a quick 5 minute ride to venture in for the nightlife during the evenings. If you were there for more than 2 nights, you may fill your curiosity with a night out in town. San Pedro was a lot of fun in my early 30s when I made my first visit. However you would likely just stay at the lodge for any remaining time, which is what I did on this visit. There is plenty to keep you entertained on-property after days of adventure in the Atacama. Of the options in Atacama, Tierra has the most comprehensive lodge facilities with an astronomy deck, resort-like pool, full spa, bar and restaurant. I would say that it’s a highlight itself of a visit to Atacama.
The Rooms
Having stayed at other lodges in Atacama, for me this was by far the nicest rooms in town. There’s a rustic yet elevated feel to the decor of the rooms. You have a sense of place that you’re on an adventure in the Atacama yet the design, decor and finishes are at the top end. The rooms do range in size, though the entry level is more than ample for a single. They have townhomes that are better for families where the kids can be downstairs and Mom and Dad upstairs. There’s not necessarily a common area in the townhomes to congregate other than the upstairs master bedroom. It doesn’t make it optimal for friends sharing who want equal space, so in that case I would do the individual rooms.
The best rooms though in my opinion are especially the suites, and that’s not a master of the obvious statement. There are some hotels where the regular room is more than ample, but at Tierra, this is a suite with benefits. They are perfect for a couple and all have stunning views. You also have a private guide when you book a suite to align with those who want an independent agenda. The premium isn’t materially more in the scope of a lifetime vacation like this. No matter which route you choose, king beds, outdoor showers and private terraces with mountain views make it easy to linger in the morning.
Spa + Pool
The pool is the highlight. After a day of hiking salt flats, canyons and high-altitude lagoons, there is nothing better than sinking into the water with the mountains lined up in front of you. We spent an afternoon just lounging by the pool and got as much out of that as an excursion. The setting gives you a front-row seat to the beauty of the Atacama, especially at sunset, when Licancabur glows and the sky puts on a show. Plan your afternoons around it.
The Uma Spa in my opinion was top notch, especially considering you are in such a remote area. The setting, like the pool, gives off luxury lodge vibes. After early starts and long hikes at altitude, a massage here is less an indulgence than a necessity. They also had a myriad of body scrubs with local salt and facials to combat the dry air. The Atacama is the second driest place on earth so there’s essentially a treatment to align your ailments. The outdoor hot tub is the perfect way to ease tired muscles before dinner.
Activities
This is the area where Tierra is very good, though Explora still has the most comprehensive offerings. Explora is more about adventure and has younger guides that can manage the grueling grind. Our guide was actually an Explora alumni from his younger years. For me as what I guess is middle age (yikes) at this stage in my life, Tierra was the right fit.With that said the offerings cater to very different travelers. At Tierra you’re going to get the broad experience to see the best of the sights in nicer vehicles with more polished service. Their menu covers the Atacama’s greatest hits, from Valle de la Luna and the El Tatio geysers to the altiplanic lagoon. There’s also the famed salt flats, stargazing, horseback rides and mountain biking.
You’re put into a group of max six to plan your adventures each evening. Small groups also mean you get to know your fellow guests, which is part of the fun here. I have to give a shoutout to Susan and Sloane, who we became best friends with on the trip. We loved Susan so much we wanted to take her with us to Bolivia. I know that we will see her again.
A big highlight of activities at Tierra is the astronomer’s observation deck. During the evenings a top astronomer will give lectures as you see the stars and planets via the high-powered telescope. The skies in the Atacama are some of the most clear, so this is an astronomy buff’s bucket list.
Food + Beverage
I can confirm after talking to others on our Bolivia trip that Tierra is the top food – both lodge and restaurants – in Atacama. The food is excellent and is presented like a Michelin-level restaurant. reason to come back to the lodge each evening. The kitchen blends Chilean and Andean traditions with international dishes. The ethos of the cuisine is built around fresh, seasonal produce and local ingredients you won’t find on menus back home. I was a little too well-fed throughout our stay
Meals and an open bar are included, and the wine list is a showcase of Chile’s best producers. That all-inclusive ease suits the lodge’s personality. No one is reaching for a bill, so dinners stretch out, tables mingle and the evening ends under some of the clearest skies on the planet.
Service
I don’t know how they found the staff, but the team understands luxury hospitality. You feel both the polish of a top lodge as well as the personality of the team. We had some complex logistics to meet Explora in Bolivia, and they handled something they had never done before like pros. I would say that we probably got the best driver through Tierra who did some major problem solving for us. A friend in the group didn’t have the immigration card necessary to exit Chile. Our driver immediately knew what to do and with just 40 minutes had us with the proper documentation to send us on our way. It’s one thing to provide nice service, and it’s another when rubber hits the road to be competent. Tierra wins this with shining colors.
Overall: 8.7/10
Tierra Atacama gets high marks for bringing easy-going luxury to the Atacama. It is the lodge I would recommend to friends planning a trip together, a girls’ getaway, or couples who like to be social. It’s the kind of place you swap stories with other travelers at the end of the day. Beautiful rooms, excellent food, warm service and a lovely spa make it a lodge that suits almost everyone. The pool, with Licancabur volcano rising behind it, is the money shot.
If you want total seclusion and a private guide for every outing, there are lodges built for that. If you want to explore one of the most extraordinary landscapes and return to a place that feels like a party among friends, Tierra Atacama is the one.
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FAQs
Q: Where is Tierra Atacama located?
A: Tierra Atacama is located in the Atacama Desert in Chile. Its address is Ayllú de Yaye – Av. Séquitor s/n, San Pedro de Atacama, Antofagasta, Chile. The lodge sits on the edge of the downtown bustling area of San Pedro de Atacama. It’s about a 12-15 minute walk or a 5 minute car ride into town.
Q: Is Tierra Atacama good for families?
A: Tierra Atacama is very good for families who appreciate a higher-end experience and whose children are 10 years or older. In general Atacama isn’t a good place for young children. The beauty is to explore the rugged, unspoiled nature of the area. A number of the sites are also high altitude so are difficult for younger children, or even adults. For active families with teenage children or older this is a bucket list lodge and destination.
Q: Does Tierra Atacama have a spa?
A: Tierra Atacama has the largest spa and arguably the best spa in the Atacama of all the lodges in the area.
