Rabbit is a lean meat served well by a long, slow braise. If you have time, cook the rabbit a day in advanceso the flavors can deepen.

Yield: 4–6 servings

Pat rabbit dry, and season with salt and pepper. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, and add oil. When oil is shimmering, add rabbit. Sear each side until light golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from pan, and reserve.

Reduce heat to medium, and add onions, carrots, and celery. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until onions are translucent, about 10 minutes.

Add wine to deglaze the pan. Scrape brown bits up from bottom, and return rabbit to pan. Add bay leaves, thyme, parsley, and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cover. Cook until rabbit is extremely tender, about 90 minutes.

Allow rabbit to cool in braising liquid. Remove rabbit, pull meat into shreds, discard bones, and set aside. Strain liquid, and reserve sauce.

Melt butter in a large sauté pan on medium-high heat. Add leeks, and season with salt and pepper. Sauté until soft, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup cream, and cook 3 more minutes. Bring 5 quarts of salted water to a boil. Boil pasta sheets, 1 or 2 at a time, until soft and pliable. Place rabbit mixture at edge pasta sheet, allowing 1/2-inch. Top with creamy leeks. Roll into cannelloni, and repeat with remaining filling.

Preheat broiler. Brush a glass baking dish lightly with oil. Place cannelloni in dish, seam side down. Pour 1–2 cups of reserved rabbit broth and remaining 2 tablespoons cream over cannelloni. Broil until cream and sauce is bubbling, about 4 minutes.