Most people come to Nepal for the Himalayas. I did too. But after two weeks of trekking to Everest Base Camp, I was ready to trade the mountains for something (anything) less physically demanding. So I headed south to the jungle. When people hear “safari,” they usually think of Africa. But if you want to search for Bengal tigers, one-horned rhinos, and wild elephants, Nepal’s southern lowlands are the place to go. Bardia National Park and Chitwan National Park are both an easy add-on to any trek. Even better, they cost a fraction of what you’d spend on a safari in Africa.
One note before you go: a safari in Nepal requires more patience than a safari in Africa. Sightings are further apart, and tigers are famously elusive. Still, the landscape is beautiful, the guides are excellent, and the moments you do get are well deserved.
Hotel: Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge
Location: Bardia National Park, western Nepal
This is where I stayed, and it’s my top pick. Tiger Tops is the name in Nepali safaris. The company traces back to 1964, when Englishman Jim Edwards and wildlife ecologist Chuck McDougal took over a hunting camp in Chitwan and turned it into a model for conservation tourism. Today, Jim’s son, Jack, runs the company. In the 1980s, Tiger Tops was asked to build a camp in Bardia, which was then considered a forgotten corner of the country. Karnali Lodge is the result.
Bardia is Nepal’s largest and wildest park in the lowlands, and it gets far fewer visitors than Chitwan. As a result, it takes more effort to reach: a short flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, then about two hours by car. The lodge sits on 30 acres at the edge of the park, with Tharu-style cottages tucked into the jungle. Mornings start early. Then you’re out in open-top vintage Land Rovers, on walking safaris, or on the river looking for tigers, rhinos, monkeys, and even Gangetic river dolphins.
What really sets Tiger Tops apart, though, are the little luxuries. Mid-drive, the guides set up tea breaks right in the middle of the jungle or on a ridge overlooking the lowlands. Back at the lodge, most of what you eat comes straight from the garden on the property. After a hot day searching for tigers, there’s also a pool waiting for you. All meals are included, and everything feels luxurious. Tiger Tops also has Tharu Lodge in Chitwan, currently under renovation.
Hotel: Kasara
Location: Chitwan National Park
If you’d rather spend less time in transit, Chitwan is the move. Nepal’s best-known national park and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s far easier to reach than Bardia. Getting there is simple: take a 20-minute flight from Kathmandu to Bharatpur, then drive about 30 minutes to the park. Alternatively, it’s roughly five-to-six hours by road from Kathmandu, and many lodges can arrange the transfer.
Once you’re there, book Kasara if design matters to you. It’s the most contemporary lodge in Chitwan, with minimalist rooms and villas built from local materials and set among water gardens and courtyards. Each villa has its own private courtyard and sun deck. Meanwhile, the two jungle-view villas come with private plunge pools facing the park. There’s a spa and a central pool for the afternoon lull between game drives.
Hotel: Meghauli Serai
Location: Chitwan National Park
Run by Taj Safaris, Meghauli Serai sits right on the Rapti River, looking across the water into the park. Book one of the 16 Rapti Villas, each with a private plunge pool and river views. Days are filled with jeep drives, walking safaris, and canoe trips down the river. Then, evenings end with dinner on the deck as the jungle goes quiet.
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FAQs
Q: Bardia or Chitwan?
A: Chitwan is easier to reach and has more lodge options. Bardia is more remote, less crowded, and offers a wilder experience. If you have the time, Bardia is worth the extra travel.
Q: When is the best time for safari in Nepal?
A: October through March brings cooler weather and good wildlife viewing. Spring (March to May) gets hotter, but the grass is shorter, which can make animals easier to spot.
Q: Can I combine safari with a trek?
A: Yes, and you should. Both parks are a short flight from Kathmandu, making them an easy add-on before or after time in the Himalayas.
Q: Will I see a tiger?
A: Maybe. Tigers are elusive and extremely territorial, so there is usually only one per 10 square miles, so think of a sighting as a bonus. Rhinos, deer, elephants, monkeys, and birdlife are far more reliable.
