They had us hooked into this place the moment we saw a gorgonzola fondue bread reel on Instagram. That and we are always looking for a good neighborhood steakhouse, especially one with a good story. But how was the food? Well, here’s the review of Hoexters, a neighborhood restaurant on the Upper East Side.
Overview
For those who live on the Upper East Side, there is a surprising void of good local non-post-college neighborhood restaurants. And by that, I mean the type of restaurant that the West Village excels at, like I Sodi or Nat’s on Bank.
So, when the family that owns Flex Mussels aimed to re-concept the space as a neighborhood steakhouse, it made sense. I also like the story behind the space, where it’s an original family restaurant with a sentimental 40+ years of history. When Flex Mussels closed in 2022 due to a fire, the owners decided to revive Hoexters. A good comeback story in a family-run space is something you could get behind, so I was all in.
Atmosphere
Hoexters is located on 82nd on a quiet residential street, and right away you feel neighborhood vibes. As you walk through the door, you get clear tavern vibes, in the dimly lit, dark wood bar area. I like restaurants that have good bar seating to grab dinner, whereas the whole front room has bar tables as well. Beyond the setup, since Hoexters opened it’s been buzzy with a crowd. You’ll find everyone from people in their late twenties all the way up to the older and more traditional Upper East Siders. Overall this mix makes it a well-balanced scene and keeps drawing in the crowds, if only for a drink.
Food + Drink
Speaking of food and drink, I had high hopes for a menu full of comfort food favorites and maybe even a seafood tower. The original version had a butcher, so I had it in my head that this would be a steakhouse. While I don’t eat meat, steakhouses have some of the best seafood and vegetarian side dishes. Instead, what I found at Hoexters though was a pretty limited menu, without a strong identity.
The formal theme of Hoexters is “brasserie”, but even at that, the menu is pretty simple. The raw bar has a shrimp cocktail, a crudo, and a caviar and a potato option. I love caviar but for a neighborhood brasserie, I’m not there to drop $250 on an ounce.
On the appetizers, if you’re in the mood for all sorts of unhealthy, the gorgonzola bread is there for you. I did find though it was more for the Gram’ than it was for real foodie value. The artichoke was fine though you’re not going to remember it in a few weeks. Same for the salads; all serviceable though like the rest of the menu, there were only three choices.
The Burger Saves the Day
The star of the show is the double smash burger, which my friend said represented well. The French fries though, like the rest of the menu including my branzino, were fine. Not bad, not great, just fine. With that said I would come back to Hoexter’s for a shrimp cocktail but the place has so much potential. My advice to them is to increase the selection and create a stronger identity. Flex Mussels has had its long-term success as it’s clear what is going to be on the menu. When you’re craving mussels, it’s one of the go-to spots. Hope with time they will evolve the menu because I’d love Hoexters to stick around a long time.
The one thing I will not be back for though is a glass of the Balvenie Scotch. Where this is normally $35 or $40 tops it was a whopping $75/glass on our bill. I would also upgrade the wine by the glass list as with the diverse crowd, there are those who would be up for a Coravin option.
Service
There are some places where you have career waitstaff. Hoexters is not one of them. With that said, the team albeit a little green is all warm and friendly. Hosts are young but do their best for you, and the waitstaff all mean well and work efficiently. Like my branzino, you may not remember the service as outstanding but it’s all a good start for a new-ish restaurant.
Overall: 6.9/10
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FAQs
Q: Where is Hoexters NYC located:
A: Hoexters is located at 174 E 82nd St, New York, NY 10028 on the Upper East Side
Q: What are Hoexters NYC’s hours of operation?
A: Hoexters hours of operation are as follows:
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Thursday
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Q: Do you need a reservation at Hoexters NYC?
A: Reservations are highly recommended at Hoexters NYC, though you can drop into the bar.