There’s a reason to stop over in Athens, and it’s not just to see the Acropolis. Because after you do that once, it’s not like you’re coming back year after year. But now, the Four Seasons on the Athenian Riviera may just be what keeps you on the mainland this summer.

Overview

There’s a version of Athens that has nothing to do with the Acropolis. Some may view it as an older version, in some ways. Set on the shores of the Aegean 40 minutes outside of the city center, the Athenian Riviera is where the jet-set Athens of the 1960s vacationed. You know, the days when Aristotle Onassis had the biggest boat out there and Brigitte Bardot was the film icon. This was a time when the Athenian Riviera rivaled the Côte d’Azur for glamour per square kilometer. Well, the Four Seasons decided to bring the Golden Age back with the opening of the The Four Seasons Astir Palace. Their bet that Athens would be a destination paved the way for others like the One&Only to follow.

Perched on a pine-clad peninsula in Vouliagmeni,  you can say that the Four Seasons Athens has singularly made Athens more than a stopover to see the Acropolis. Or a fly through on the way to Mykonos, for that matter. For some, the Four Seasons Athens may be the destination in Greece itself.

Atmosphere

The Four Seasons Athens is the grand scale Four Seasons resort formula in all its glory. The size of the massive complex is the first thing that registers. The 303 rooms spread across two towers, the Arion and Nafsika. One feels like a boutique hotel, and the other feels like a family-friendly resort. For those who want more privacy, there’s a collection of original 1960s bungalows tucked into the coastline on the way to Matsuhisa. (More on that later under food).

The peninsula setting is a stunner,, with Aegean views from almost anywhere in the property. There are three private beaches strung together by a 300-meter boardwalk. After a $700 million renovation completed in 2019, the design lands somewhere between mid-century modernism and contemporary Greek aesthetic.

Design-wise, this is one of the nicer Four Seasons in the portfolio but also one that bridges the hotels into modern luxury. The design tone is set with clean lines, contemporary design, warm wood, linen, olive trees. Think of it as the next gen Four Seasons.  If you’re a fan of Four Seasons, the Four Seasons Athens will earn a top spot on your list.

Guests as Part of the Vibe

The guests are both international and the well-heeled of Athens. The food venues – Beef Bar and Matsuhisa, draw the affluent locals which elevates the Four Seasons Athens above just a tourist hotel. It is actually everything that the Four Seasons Athens offers that makes it a lively center of the social scene. As a visitor to Athens, the interaction with the locals and people watching scene makes this even more compelling if this if your vibe than staying right in town.

Rooms

There are two buildings that comprise the Four Seasons Athens, both with distinct vibes. The Arion building skews quieter and more adult, and feels more like a boutique hotel. The Nafsika wing is the main part of the hotel with floor-to-ceiling windows, terraces that face the Aegean. The rooms are not oversized, particularly at the entry level, so upsize your room if that’s important to you. Some may find the Arion rooms smaller than the rates imply, but alas you have to pay to play. Beds are super comfortable and what you’d expect from Four Seasons. My travel plus one even bought the pillows for home.

The Private Bungalows

If you want to be wowed by your room and need the privacy, the move is the bungalows. Hidden behind bougainvillea and olive trees, think private pool and romantic vibe that make you feel like you’re in a house. The caveat: some bungalows face walkways rather than the sea, so choose wisely.

Food & Beverage

This is where the hotel earns most of its score from me. Pelagos is the flagship — a Michelin-starred seafood restaurant by chef Luca Piscazzi. This is where they flex on the fancy rendition of Greek food. You can expect langoustine tartare with caviar sauce, and Dover sole with saffron hollandaise and Kalamata olives in this interpretation.

I personally found Taverna 37 the most charming and authentic. Taverna is set directly on the water below the Arion building. Go here for lunch to get perfectly grilled lobster, prawns and fish, which to me is the best of Greek food. Avra Bar, designed by Brudnizki with a ’70s soul soundtrack and tableside Bloody Mary service, is one of the better hotel bars in Europe.

The International Brands

The reason that Four Seasons Athens isn’t a tourist hotel is because the locals come for the scene at Matsuhisa and Beefbar. I know that we can get these restaurants anywhere in the world, and personally I love Greek food. If you’re in Greece to eat Greek, then neither of these restaurants may be for you.

However when you’re a local, if you want Greek food, you can eat that at home. That’s why these restaurants are central to the big nights out of the chic locals.  Matsuhisa and Beefbar are a vibe. I would say both more expensive but also better than most of their other outposts around the world. It seems from some of the reviews disagree with me, but I know my food. The Matsuhisa rendition at the Four Seasons had fish that was so fresh, along with some fusion with Greek cuisine. Beefbar’s cocktails were tops and the space was beautiful and filled with beautiful people. Given the location of the Four Seasons, it was nice to be able to stay on resort for top food.

Spa & Wellness

We spent a lot of quality time at the hotel in both the spa and the gym. The gym is Technogym-equipped and, unlike most hotel fitness centers, is actually worth using. Both the gym and the spa were run with professionals who are at the level of my team at home. The spa is inspired by the teachings of Hippocrates and built around seasonal Greek rituals and ancient remedies. You’re mostly on the go when you’re in Greece and this was a perfect time to get that vacation from my vacation.

A Note for Families

For families, there is a dedicated kids club, tennis academy, basketball, and activities that give parents the afternoon off. The infrastructure for families here is among the strongest of any Four Seasons property globally. The food venues as well cater to international cuisine so there’s always something for everyone.

Service

When I arrived in my room I had a gorgeous bouquet from the Concierge team congratulating me on my 44th Four Seasons. I’ve actually been to many more but Four Seasons Athens was the first to ever recognize that I’m a frequent visitor. What this means to me is that the Athens team has an exceptional level of detail. Here, the Four Seasons training holds, and then some with its real heart. While this is a large scale resort, it doesn’t feel that way in service. Besides the food venues, service is one of the best aspects of the resort.

Overall: 8/10

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