Serves four
For the venison
Lay out the bacon strips separately onto a sheet of baking parchment and cover with another sheet of parchment. roll out and stretch thin the bacon with a rolling pin. Now begin to wrap the bacon around the venison. This is best achieved by picking up the loin with 1 hand and tightly wrapping the bacon around with the other, making sure to overlap each strip a little to completely cover the loin. Once covered, leave at kitchen temperature for an hour.
Serves four
For the venison
Lay out the bacon strips separately onto a sheet of baking parchment and cover with another sheet of parchment. roll out and stretch thin the bacon with a rolling pin. Now begin to wrap the bacon around the venison. This is best achieved by picking up the loin with 1 hand and tightly wrapping the bacon around with the other, making sure to overlap each strip a little to completely cover the loin. Once covered, leave at kitchen temperature for an hour.
Crowdie Mash
Put the crowdie in a bowl and beat in the cream to loosen the cheese. Add a little seasoning (as the crowdie is naturally salty); add mix until smooth. Add the creamed crowdie to the potato and give it a good mix, just as you would with butter and cream normally. Adjust seasoning and keep warm.
Bramble Gravy
Begin by boiling the stock until it has reduced to approximately 300mls. Now mix together the wine and vinegar and warm gently in a pot and keep at hand. In a dry heavy based pan, add the sugar and heat it moderately until it melts and starts to caramelize. As soon as it begins to smoke, carefully and immediately pour in the red wine mixture and bring to a boil. Now add 100g of the brambles and boil for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool slightly before liquidizing in a blender. Now add this to the reduced stock along with the remaining brambles. Keep hot.
To Serve
On a moderate to high setting heat a heavy based, non-stick frying pan and then add rapeseed oil. Now place the wrapped loin in the pan and begin to color the outside by searing and turning the meat gradually. The beauty of this technique is that by the time the bacon is completely cooked and colored all the way around the loin, and then rested in a warm place for 10 minutes, the loin should be perfectly medium rare. If you desire a more cooked piece of meat then simply place in a medium oven for another 5–10 minutes, depending on individual preference, before resting.
Once rested, carve the rested loin into 4 and serve onto warm plates with the crowdie mash before spooning over the hot bramble gravy. Curly kale and wild mushrooms make a seasonal addition to this delicious highland supper.
