The island’s most famous dish is as strong a remedy for a bad day as its therapeutic springs.  Typically, it’s made with rabbit. Regardless of which protein you choose to cook, patience is rewarded: It’s molto buono if served the next day.

Yield: 4 servings

Pat chicken dry, and season with salt and pepper.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, and add oil. When oil is shimmering, place chicken skin-side down in pan. Sear each skin is golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Turn chicken and sear other side for another minute. Remove from pan, and reserve.

Reduce heat to medium, and add onions and carrots. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and chili flakes, and cook for 1 minute.

Add wine to deglaze the pan, scraping brown bits up from bottom. Add tomatoes, water, and bay leaf. Return chicken to pan, skin-side up, along with any juices that have collected. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cover. Cook until legs are tender, about 50 minutes.

Turn on broiler. Place chicken, uncovered, under broiler, until skin is crispy. Remove chicken from braising liquid, and place on a serving platter with several spoonfuls of sauce. Top with basil and parsley.

Strain sauce through a fine sieve, pressing down on carrots and onions with the back of a spoon so all juices are released.

Reserve sauce for spaghetti.