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The Golden Swan Review

Christine Drinan, Founder

1 year ago

A tribute to New York institutions that are sadly no longer, we sure miss The Spotted Pig. Though, if you didn’t hear between glasses of rosé between St. Tropez and the Amalfi, the space is back as The Golden Swan restaurant. And if we’re being honest, it kinda looks exactly the same as The Pig, but with a much better bathroom. This is the review.

Overview

The Spotted Pig was a beloved institution for over 15 years. It was the only place I would wait two hours for a table. Or for very late nights, it was our last call stop for drinks. The Pig just had that effortless vibe that epitomized New York. April Bloomfield helmed the kitchen and I can still taste the gnudi in sage butter that melted in my mouth. As for her burgers with those thin haystack fries that mounded every plate – it was a legend and worth the wait. As we all know though, they closed in total disgrace in 2020. The Pig was essentially abandoned until it reopened in May 2023 as The Golden Swan restaurant.

Under the rendition of The Golden Swan, Chef Doug Brixton and owner Matt Abramcyk have completely re-done the space, as well as the menu. This is the review, of The Golden Swan restaurant that has big shoes to fill.

Atmosphere

The building was purchased from Jay Z for around $7.5 million, and they completely gut-renovated the space. I’m sure it needed it after the hard wear and tear of the 16+ years The Pig was in business. However, if I’m being honest, it still feels like the old space, but with much nicer (and cleaner) bathrooms. Yes for sure it’s elevated as the Golden Swan restaurant. There are white linens on the tables and the staff isn’t dressed in ripped jeans and t-shirts. But the DNA of the building still feels like The Pig. This is a bonus in my mind because the feel of the old space was one of its major draws.

In lieu of dropping by though as a neighborhood spot open to all, The Golden Swan restaurant is different. They’re actually going for a more private clubhouse feel, without being a private club. First, you need a reservation to get even into the vestibule of the space. It’s also now set up as two distinct experiences: The Wallace Room and the upstairs Dining Room. The Wallace Room is on the first floor and has a limited menu of food. It’s mainly focused on cocktails. The Dining Room is where they show off their skills in the kitchen. There’s a full menu that’s elevated French with a down-to-earth American influence.

Overall the vibe is elegant and nice people-watching, though much less social talk to your neighbors than the old Spotted Pig. You’re also not jockeying for a spot since all the space is allocated for reservations. This all creates a better, though different atmosphere. The Golden Swan restaurant is suitable for date nights and group dinners with friends.

Food

There’s no homage to The Spotted Pig, or at least any evident one in the food. In other words, no burger with haystack fries or gnudi. Instead, you’ll find caviar with homemade Gaufrette potatoes, steak tartare, and duck terrine. The menu is also streamlined; for mains, there are around five selections. Each dish though is carefully executed, as you would expect from Chef Brixton formerly of Batard. The food is solid; my companions enjoyed the Amish chicken, and I liked my halibut. Nothing though was mind-blowing, though it’s the kind of food that’s well-executed that you would return for a reliable easy meal.

Service

The one area where The Golden Swan restaurant excels and head and shoulders beyond The Spotted Pig is the service. Yes, there’s someone standing outside with an iPad of required reservations, but there’s no attitude. The team is knowledgeable and they are passionate about what they’re building at The Golden Swan. Service just works here; no drama on waits, empty drinks, or timing of food. It’s another reason that if you need a solid spot for dinner, The Golden Swan restaurant could be your neighborhood spot.