Any self-respecting wiseguy knows his way around a card table and a cannoli. This recipe doubles down with two kinds of cheese. If you’re not feeling the espresso, substitute some vanilla paste instead.

Yield: About 2 dozen

Strain ricotta cheese through cheesecloth overnight in fridge. Add ricotta, mascarpone, and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk until smooth, 1–2 minutes.

In a small saucepan, bring cream to a boil. Add espresso powder, and shut off heat. Mix well. Add to mixer and whisk for 1 minute. Add chocolate chips, and stir with a spoon. Wrap mixture with Saran and refrigerate.

Add flour, sugar, and cinnamon to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse 10 seconds. Add butter, and pulse 10 seconds. Add wine and eggs, and pulse for 10 seconds. Gather dough into a ball, flatten into a disk, and wrap in Saran. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Dust work surface and rolling pin with flour. Rolls out dough until it is about 1/8 inches thick. Using a 1 1/2-inch cookie cutter, cut as many rounds from dough as possible. Place rounds on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Roll dough around mini cannoli tubes (3 5/8 inches long by 9/16 inches thick). Seal top gently and brush with egg white.

Heat 2 inches of canola oil in a nonstick sauce pan. When candy thermometer reaches 350˚F, add cannoli tubes. Fry until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Allow to cool.

Add filling to a piping bag fitted with a pastry tip. Pipe filling into cannoli shells until full. Refrigerate until serving.