Executive Chef Codney: While most people don’t think that much about gravy, this one simple thing defines the meal. Gravy covers the mashed potatoes, the stuffing, and makes the meat memorable. Think of it as a way to drive home flavor and intensify the experience.

Heat the oil in a large soup or stockpot over medium heat until it is warm and fast moving. Add the neck and backbone and sauté 5–6 minutes or until browned. Add the giblets and brown. Add the wine, reducing the liquid by half. Add stock or broth and bring to a simmer. Add remaining ingredients. Allow ingredients to simmer for 4 hours until volume is reduced to half. Strain liquid and reserve. Skim off any fat and reserve for the gravy. Allow the stock to cool overnight or reserve one cup and cool down.

Take the fat from the top of the stock and place in a pan. Cook until melted. Whisk in the flour and work out any clumps, about 3–4 minutes. Add the cooled stock, whisking the entire time and bring to a boil. Add the remaining stock and simmer for 20 minutes on low. Add the remaining ingredients and serve.