You’ve been to Cecconi’s in places like London and West Hollywood. There’s nothing quite like its pizzas and fried zucchini, and its effortlessly cool-yet-elegant scene. And while there’s been one in Brooklyn for a while, we now finally have our very own Cecconi’s in Manhattan. Does it stack up at the new Ned hotel? Here’s the review.
The beloved NoMad hotel has thankfully reopened as The Ned, a private members’ club and hotel that’s part of the Soho House empire. They’ve lightened up the decor from the velvet- brocade goth vibe, but it still has the bones of the NoMad.
In its new incarnation, the rooftop and former restaurant spaces are for hotel guests and members only. However, what was once its retail shop is now Cecconi’s. If you’re not familiar with this chainlette, Cecconi’s is a staple Italian restaurant of the Soho House group. With locations from London to Mumbai to West Hollywood, Cecconi’s is the only aspect of the private clubs that is open to the public.
I’ve loved Cecconi’s from the first time I went to the London location in Mayfair. It just hit all the décor elements — combining marble floors, that signature unique cerulean blue leather, and Murano-glass chandeliers. The atmosphere is classic, modern, and vintage all at the same time, which it a design feat in itself.
That DNA of design flows through all of the Cecconi locations. And now Cecconi’s arrives in Manhattan, at The Ned hotel. This spot is more intimate than most, given the limited footprint of the original space. It’s cozy, though. And the type of place you want to pop into on a fall or winter night.
Overall, what I like about Cecconi’s is that it gives everyone a chance to experience the Soho House atmosphere, even if you’re not a member. My assessment is that the new Cecconi’s at The Ned is an elevated neighborhood spot that fits right into NoMad.
Cecconi’s will probably not win a Michelin-star anytime soon. But I consider it my staple neighborhood comfort food. Everything on the menu is solid, and it’s the kind of place that you could drop into a few times a week. In that way, it’s not dissimilar from Soho House, which is meant to integrate into your everyday routine. I also love a place where it’s perfectly acceptable to order french fries alongside pizza and pasta.
Cecconi’s serves breakfast, which makes it a good spot for work meetings. And this Manhattan location makes the classic breakfast dishes their own. Eggs are scrambled cacio e pepe style, and there’s a unique prosciutto, stracciatella, and truffle rendition. I would say this NoMad location’s menu is elevated from my recent Cecconi’s visits in Paris and Istanbul.
The all-day menu continues into the evening and has solid pizza and pasta. You can come in for the bucatini cacio e pepe or the rigatoni bolognese anytime of the week. Nine times out of 10, it’s probably better than what most of us could make at home. The bonus is that you get the Cecconi’s atmosphere. Yes, the zucchini chips are better at Milos. But the food is enhanced by the signature Cecconi’s vibe. You can say the same for every dish on the menu. Best of all, none of this will break the bank.
The service team is finding its groove. While you don’t have long-time career waitstaff, everyone tries their best. Sometimes you do wait for a water refill or have to track down your server. But it’s not egregious. So while it’s not intuitive service, it’s solid enough for your neighborhood cantina.
Overall: A solid 7/10.
You can put this one on your neighborhood rotation.
Q: When is Cecconi’s NoMad open?
A: Sunday — Wednesday: 7 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Thursday — Saturday: 7 a.m. – 11 p.m.
Q: Do you need reservations for Cecconi’s?
A: Advance reservations are available only to members of The Ned, Soho House, and hotel guests. It’s open to the public though, so walk-ins are welcome.
Q: What kind of food does Cecconi’s serve?
A: Cecconi’s is a modern Italian restaurant, with pizza, pastas, and fish and meat dishes. It’s food you can eat every day.