One of the benefits of being around in NYC during the summer is checking out the restaurants on my wish-list. Wildair isn’t new, but it’s been on my radar forever. Wildair is the more casual wine bar of the now-closed, but rumored to reopen under some sort of iteration of Contra. Essentially, Contra was, and Wildair is, like the real-life The Bear on FX. By all reports, at Wildair, you have yourself a crew that is breaking culinary boundaries and taking no prisoners. This is my Wildair review, and whether it was worth the wait.

Atmosphere

Wildair is in a nondescript storefront on the Lower East Side’s Orchard Street. When I walked into Wildair, it reminded me of a craft brewery with its high-top table seating and kitchen counter stools. Its raw simplicity and simple decor gives off a vibe like you’re either 1) in for the meal of your life or 2) in for a beer and a burger. With its reputation and reviews, I was ready for the former. The staff sets that expectation too, as they have that Brooklyn tattoo funky air about them. The other diners are downtown-set, who are foodies and local New Yorkers, who round out the vibe of Wildair.

Food + Beverage

We had high hopes for Wildair to be the real-life version of the FX show The Bear. To my disappointment, it was a far cry, and every reason that we do our own restaurant reviews at Galavante.

But to back up, upon our arrival, I immediately saw seven dishes that I wanted to try. The red snapper crudo was first up. The fish was coated in a red Mexican pepper spice and had a few slices of kumquat and a flower leaf called nasturtium. The crux of the issue with the crudo was that fish was not fresh, so none of the other interesting ingredients stood a chance. To power through it, I asked for more kumquat. Some kitchens like this would have given attitude, but they graciously obliged.

I was hoping the first course was an anomaly as they brought out the pithivier. I think that Angie Mar at her original Trois Cheval rocked this dish, so anytime I see a pithivier, I’m pretty stoked. Wildair’s version was more of a Pop-Tart or Hot Pocket. I honestly couldn’t discern what was inside the puff pastry. The menu said kimchi, Alpha Tolman cheese and egg yolk jam. To me, it just tasted like mush in an okay puff pastry.

The next dish that came out was the eclair that was filled with a rich anchovy and olive cream. I took one bite and just couldn’t do more. Enough was enough after three signature dishes. It’s been a long time since I’ve been this disappointed in a dining experience.

Service

The moment we saw the tattooed kitchen staff and scored the counter seats overlooking all the action, we thought we were in for a show. We were also hopeful that we would see and hear brilliance from the legit-looking team. I am disappointed to report that there wasn’t passion in any of the touchpoints of our experience. Of course, everyone was nice to us, but I felt like there was no soul in the service. With what they’re trying to achieve on a culinary level, I think that passion needs to exist in a place like Wildair.

Overall: 6.5/10

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FAQs

Q; Where is Wildair located?

A: Wildair is located on the Lower East Side of Manhattan at 142 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002.

Q: What are the hours of operation of Wildair?

A: The hours of operation of Wildair are as follows: