You have to give major props to club promotors who built the most successful restaurant franchise in the world. So, hats off to the Tao guys – not only for being there for us in our twenties, but now for their latest venture, Crane Club. This is the review.
Atmosphere
If there’s one thing that the Tao guys have done exceptionally well in their 25 years of business, it’s that they can create a scene. It seems like yesterday I was a twenty-something year old drinking cosmopolitans and noshing on sushi at their first Midtown location. Tao essentially created a category of trendy restaurants that turned into a club back in the day. Crane Club builds on that but is a more grown-up, elegant version. In the old Del Pesto space, it’s pretty unrecognizable from its predecessor. Also unlike its sibling Tao with its multi-story buddha and viewing platforms, Crane Club feels more like a classy supper club. The bar is dimly lit and fairly intimate. The dining room has graceful arches with deep pinkish red velvet chairs and booths.
But apart from all the design that went into the space, at Tao, it’s always been about the people. Where Tao is in your face scene, Crane Club is more “mature” money, though of course that’s all relative. Crane Club is the 4.0 version of Tao, where it may be a prerequisite to be pretty to be part of the crowd. The people watching is the reason to go to Crane Club, and if you want to reminisce about the days you used to rule the club scene in your twenties.
Food + Beverage
The other reason that Tao was so successful is because for all the scene, the food at the time was boundary-breaking. No one could do trendy Japanese like Tao. I read that Crane Club was meant to be the legacy restaurant of the Tao Group. But really nothing can top the legacy that they’ve created one of the most successful restaurant groups in the world. Tao Las Vegas has consistently been the highest grossing restaurant in the U.S.
I frame all this as with all the hype of Crane Club, its food doesn’t measure up to comparable steak houses in the city. My personal opinion is that it felt like the classic American steakhouse theme was a fish out of water. It didn’t seem natural in the execution of the menu, and almost like they were trying too hard. From the complimentary bread course which includes a decent homemade focaccia to the mediocre raw bar, and average Steelhead trout, it was all fine, but not great. They try very hard as well with the presentation of sauces table side, which of course is appreciated. However if there’s one weak link in the whole Crane Club equation, it’s the food. If you’re on an expense account and just don’t care, then maybe you would return. On the other hand if you’re a New Yorker who expects scene, food and service to align, you may come once and never return. This is no Corner Store that has dishes you’ll return for time and again. I hope I’m wrong but unless something dramatically improves, I don’t know if Crane’s in it for the next 25 years like its sibling Tao.
Service
There’s a reason that Tao has been unicorn successful with a loyal following of repeat clients. Service at Crane Club runs like this isn’t their first rodeo. In lieu of the 1990s-style pretension that they could cop, the team handles the demanding crowd like pros.
Overall: 7.2/10
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FAQs
Q: Where is Crane Club located?
A: Crane Club is located at:
Q: What are the hours of operation at Crane Club?
A: The hours of operation at Crane Club are as follows:
Wednesday | 5–10 pm |
Thursday | 5–11 pm |
Friday | 5–11 pm |
Saturday | 5–11 pm |
Sunday | 5–9 pm |
Monday | 5–10 pm |
Tuesday | 5–10 pm |
Q: Is Crane Club good for families?
A: In general, Crane Club is an adults venue for fun people watching. However on Sunday nights you will see chic families with well-behaved children having a low-key dinner.