You have to give major props to club promoters who built the most successful restaurant franchise in the world. So, hats off to the Tao guys – not only for being there for us in our twenties, but now for their latest venture, Crane Club. This is the review.

Atmosphere

If there’s one thing that the Tao guys have done exceptionally well in their 25 years of business, it’s that they can create a scene. It seems like just yesterday, I was a twenty-something-year-old, drinking cosmopolitans and noshing on sushi at their first Midtown location. Tao essentially created a category of trendy restaurants that turned into a club back in the day. Crane Club builds on that, but is a more grown-up, elegant version. Set in the old Del Pesto space, it’s pretty unrecognizable from its predecessor. Also, unlike its sibling, Tao, with its multi-story buddha and viewing platforms, Crane Club feels more like a classy supper club. The bar is dimly lit and fairly intimate. The dining room has graceful arches, with deep pinkish red velvet chairs and booths.

But, apart from all the design that went into the space, at Tao, it’s always been about the people. While Tao is an in-your-face scene, Crane Club is more “mature” money — though, of course, that’s all relative. Crane Club is the 4.0 version of Tao, where it may be a prerequisite to be pretty to be part of the crowd. The people-watching is the reason to go to Crane Club. And, if you want to reminisce about the days you used to rule the club scene in your twenties.

Food + Beverage

The other reason that Tao was so successful is because for all the scene, the food at the time was boundary-breaking. No one could do trendy Japanese like Tao. I read that Crane Club was meant to be the legacy restaurant of the Tao Group. But really, nothing can top the legacy that they’ve created in becoming one of the most successful restaurant groups in the world. Tao Las Vegas has consistently been the highest grossing restaurant in the U.S.

I frame all this because with all the hype of Crane Club, its food doesn’t measure up to comparable steak houses in the city. My personal opinion is that it felt like the classic American steakhouse theme was a fish out of water. It didn’t seem natural in the execution of the menu — almost like they were trying too hard. From the complimentary bread course (which includes a decent homemade focaccia) to the mediocre raw bar, and average Steelhead trout, it was all fine, but not great. They try very hard as well with the presentation of sauces table-side, which, of course, is appreciated. However, the one weak link in the whole Crane Club equation is indeed the food. If you’re on an expense account and just don’t care, then maybe you would return. On the other hand, if you’re a New Yorker who expects scene, food and service to align, you may come once and never return. This is no Corner Store that has dishes you’ll return for time and again. I hope I’m wrong, but unless something dramatically improves, I don’t know if Crane’s in it for the next 25 years like its sibling, Tao.

Service

There’s a reason that Tao has been unicorn-successful with a loyal following of repeat clients. Service at Crane Club runs like this isn’t their first rodeo. In lieu of the 1990s-style pretension that they could cop, the team handles the demanding crowd like pros.

Overall: 7.2/10

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FAQs

Q: Where is Crane Club located?

A: Crane Club is located at:

Q: What are the hours of operation at Crane Club?

A: The hours of operation at Crane Club are as follows:

Q: Is Crane Club good for families?

A: In general, Crane Club is an adults venue for fun people watching. However, on Sunday nights, you will see chic families with well-behaved children having a low-key dinner.