We know there are big names in the Indian food space, but one which isn’t all the buzz may just be the top of them all. Passerine is the restaurant to know now. Especially, because it’s the latest venture from Chef Chetan Shetty, who spent 10 years at Indian Accent. That already explains the Michelin-level presentation, though at Rania in Washington DC is where he earned his Michelin star. Passerine opened last year, in Priyanka Chopra’s old Sona (another Indian restaurant). You can say some spaces are predestined. And although we loved Sona, Passerine NYC takes it to the next level.

Atmosphere

One of the reasons I loved Sona so much was because it was a vibe. Maybe it’s because of Priyanka Chopra’s magic touch, but Sona always had beautiful people. You could tell that every dish, napkin and glass were thoughtfully selected, and the room was as beautifully decorated as the people. While I’m not sure exactly what was changed at Passerine, the space is also stunning, with vibrant colors. If you’ve ever been jewelry shopping in Jaipur, the theme is rich, like the rubies and emeralds you’ll peruse. The front room is also more lounge-y, to make it a destination for cocktails and bites.

The only aspect that I felt was missing was the people-watching. It could be because I was with girlfriends on a Tuesday in January, but it was quiet. In peeking at reservations, it seems that they are pretty open, even today. Something to keep in mind, both for when you need a reservation in a pinch, and for when you’re looking for more of a scene. But even knowing this, the food and service are really what you’re here for. I would be back in a heartbeat.

Food + Beverage

Besides being one of the most beautiful Indian restaurants in NYC, Passerine has some of the top food. What distinguishes Passerine from Semma or even Bungalow is its Michelin-level presentation. The food at Passerine is like art on a plate. They bring out a few amuse-bouche from the kitchen — these were a big hit with our table. One was like an Indian version of a gougère, and the other was a little pastry shell filled with roe and a cream. The scallion Uttapam looks like a mini taco that you can add a supplement of caviar to. I could have eaten a dozen of these little guys. The chana masala panisse was a flower-like canapé with a tomato cream that I also wished I could eat all night.

For the mains, one of the dishes that stood out was a slow-roasted cabbage with coriander and coconut. It was just one of the many indicators that the chef has mad skills. Anyone who can make you crave cabbage is a brilliant chef. There was also a hay-smoked scallop and monkfish that we shared, both of which tasted more French than Indian to me. I’m not going to pretend I remember every single nuance to the meal, but I was blown away. For me, Passerine NYC is one of the best, if not my favorite, Indian in the city.

On beverage, Passerine stands on its own as a stop for pre-dinner cocktails. Their bartenders have talent, and mix up an array of Indian-inspired, modern cocktails. My friends pretty much tried the highlights of the specialty cocktails, and like the food, everything was well-balanced, with just enough nuance to make it interesting. In a city where most wine lists have the usual big names and big price tags, it’s not the case here. Like the food, they were creative on the list, and carry some interesting wines from Lebanon as well. There’s nothing that Passerine is just dialing in; everything is thoughtfully put together.

Service

Besides the food, the service could not be any better. The team — from the host and your server to the sommelierar — are all so genuine and passionate about what they’re creating at Passerine. Their subject matter knowledge is what you’d expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant, which I think is what they want to achieve. The team is real foodies; they just need more foodies to join in on the Passerine experience.

Overall: 8/10

I’m cheering them on at Passerine. If there is such a thing as meritocracy in the NYC restaurant scene, this place deserves to make it.

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FAQs

Q: Where is Passerine NYC located?

A: Passerine is located at 36 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003. If the address looks familiar, it’s because it’s in the old Sona space, which was also an Indian restaurant.

Q: What are the hours of operation of Passerine NYC?

A: The hours of operation of Passerine are as follows: