We’d like to interrupt this ode to Rome with a 17-course omakase dinner, plus a bonus aperitivo hour – just because. Sushi by Scratch, a concept restaurant that’s crushed it in Austin, Chicago and Denver, now wants to prove that if they can make it in NYC, they can make it anywhere.

Atmosphere

A certain tone is set when you enter through a hidden basement door beneath a nail salon. You almost feel like you need a secret password as you ring the unmarked buzzer. That speakeasy air continues, as you enter a dimly lit, intimate lounge with candelabras dripping with wax at wrought iron cocktail tables. There’s nothing stuffy though about Sushi by Scratch in NYC. A traditional omakase experience is one where you can hear a pin drop. At Sushi by Scratch in NYC, it feels more familial, fun and welcoming.

The main sushi bar was in a separate room, where it was clear that it’s time for the main attraction: the 17-course omakase. Everyone’s names were written on a chalk board place setting, and each seat had prime view of the show behind the counter. There were only about a dozen or so seats, so it’s an intimate setting. With the atmosphere that’s set, it’s one of those places that keeps you in the moment. Whatever you have going on in the outside world disappears into the vibe of Sushi by Scratch in NYC.

Food + Beverage

The party gets started on the right foot when you tuck into the lounge for canapé hour. While the sushi is good (which I’ll get to in more detail), I would say that maybe my favorite part was the welcome snacks. Oyster shooters, Japanese whisky cocktail, spot prawn, tuna on a crispy nori and an egg and caviar.

I could have stayed in the lounge all night, but after about 30 minutes, we were shown into the intimate sushi bar room. I normally avoid omakase as I like to control what I eat, and I don’t do the more exotic stuff. However, at Sushi by Scratch in NYC, the premise is to make omakase for everyone. This isn’t an austere sushi omakase, but rather a modern one, where the fish is enhanced with quail egg, scallion, matcha and yuzu. They lightly dress each piece of fish, so you don’t feel like you’re only eating raw fish.

For example, I normally find madai fishy, for example. Sushi by Scratch in NYC though works their alchemy by marinating the fish to make it edible for those of us who don’t like the “weird” stuff. This may not be for the traditionalists who take omakase seriously, but it is almost for anyone who likes sushi.

To Supplement or Not to Supplement

There is one “good to know” before you embark on the Sushi by Scratch experience. I love me a supplement of caviar and truffle any day. However, in this case, I don’t think it’s an essential. At a spot like Sixty Three Clinton, where the caviar supplement means an all-you-can-stuff caviar in a massive hand roll, you get your money’s worth. At Sushi by Scratch, though, the portions of caviar and truffle are petite. They don’t add a lot to what is already a good experience.

Service

The service sets the tone for the entire experience at Sushi by Scratch in NYC. You can tell that the team at Sushi by Scratch really likes each other, and believes in what they’re shipping. This directly translates into the effortless service experience at Sushi by Scratch. The service is what hospitality should be, where you feel welcomed and engaged by the team from the moment you walk in. It’s professional from start to finish, but the team at Sushi by Scratch is still warm and genuine overall. They also make it a fun experience, and it’s the furthest from the quiet deference of a traditional omakase. If you can afford the $245/person price tag, you would make this a regular neighborhood experience.

Overall: 8/10

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FAQs

Q: Where is Sushi by Scratch in NYC located?

A: Sushi by Scratch in NYC is located at 922 Broadway, New York, NY 10010. Follow the unmarked staircase below the nail salon to ring the doorbell to gain entry to Sushi by Scratch in NYC.

Q: What are the hours of operation of Sushi by Scratch in NYC?

A: The hours of operation of Sushi by Scratch in NYC are as follows:

Q: Do you need a reservation for Sushi by Scratch in NYC?

A: Yes, reservations for Sushi by Scratch in NYC are essential. There are rarely openings for drop-ins as you pay a non-refundable deposit when you reserve your spot on Tock. For reservations that are made less than 48 hours in advance, they charge a $220/per person deposit.