To open an Italian restaurant in NYC, is like opening a sushi spot in Tokyo. There are a lot of Italian restaurants in NYC, so any new spot has to have something special if it’s going to stick around. Principe throws in a seafood speciality, so I was slightly more intrigued. Still, when I headed over to Principe for the first time, I expected to find the usual Italian fare. Instead, this new Italian seafood restaurant in NYC, may just be one of my favorite top 5.
Overview
Principe doesn’t quite feel like you should be walking into a restaurant when you arrive. It’s probably because it’s in a former art gallery space, and retains the modern concrete and glass interior. It’s actually befitting that design matches the experience of Executive Chef Abram Bissell, who previously came from The Modern. His resume also includes The Nomad and Eleven Madison Park, the latter before they went all vegan. So how is Chef Bissel’s new venture? The verdict is that Principe is an Italian seafood restaurant in NYC, that is more than just a cool scene.
Atmosphere
In a word, Principe is cool. In a former art gallery in Soho, the bones of the original modern glass and concrete are in tact. When you do walk in, you’re immediately immersed a vibe. The front room is a large bar, that’s sparsely furnished with just a few tables, and comfortable seats at the bar itself. The decor is modern minimalist, and continues into the dining room. What struck me is how few tables were in the large space. It’s almost like they kept to social distancing on the space. But then again, the large comfortable booths, which are prime seats contribute to that air of cool that is the thread through the whole experience.
Besides the surprisingly few tables, the dining room speaks fine dining, though it’s far more fun at Principe than that. This is not a hushed tasting menu place, but rather lively atmosphere where everyone is enjoying their food and wine.
Food
When a chef has a pedigree like Abram Bissell, it doesn’t always translate to success when they get their own place. This is one of the rare instances, where all that experience comes through. The food at Principe is in a word, excellent. It’s modern Italian, but it’s some of the best food I’ve had at a new restaurant this year. They actually describe themselves as a seafood restaurant inspired by Italian influences, but to me it’s one of the best examples of modern Italian in the city. Yes, of course, their seafood dishes shine. The execution of the food is flawless like you would expect at a fine dining restaurant, but the whole experience is much more approachable. It’s also the kind of place that you want to come back again and again.
Let’s Talk the Meal
First, they bring you this English muffin-like skillet bread, with a homemade goat cheese butter in spicy Sicilian oil. It’s heaven, and you have to control yourself from eating more, because the other carbs are worth the splurge on the Principe menu. But first, let’s talk the seafood, which are beautifully presented small plates to start. The menu is seasonal, but the raw bar currently has 9 creatively and delicately executed dishes, including a red prawns with coriander and jalapeño sauce. The oysters make you want to drink in the meyer lemon, black pepper and chives. The scallops with pistachio are also something special. The point is, order as many of these small plates as you and your party can eat.
The Pastas
Pastas shine bright on the menu. I am still dreaming of the gnudi with bottarga, which were rich pillows in butter, but yet didn’t make me feel like I had a rock in my tummy. The bucatini with clams with the egg yolk that you mix in right at the table emulsified the sauce. You can’t think of anything better in that moment as you tuck into the pasta. There’s also the basil tortellini in brood and the shrimp mafaldine that round out the pastas, so you need backup if you’re just a party of two.
You won’t have room for dessert, but it’s worth it to push yourself. The birthday cake on my visit came out on the brown sugar banana cake, with whipped yogurt. I had my eye on the key lime ice cream sandwich, but alas there will be a next time.
Service
For a place that is buzzing with scene and beautiful people, Principe NYC’s service could not be more warm and welcoming. From the moment you’re greeted by the host, to the flawless table service, you can tell it’s not their first rodeo at Principe. You can have a cool scene, and your food can be good, but you’re not going to last in NYC unless your service is tops. Everyone was not only knowledgeable, but they were also genuine. You can tell that while this is a cool place with more than a neighborhood vibe, they want guests to become regulars.
Overall: 8.0/10
Food, service and atmosphere are a well-oiled machine at Principe. We hope they are here to stay.
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Q: Where is Principe NYC located?
A: Principe NYC is in the Soho neighborhood. Their address is 450 W Broadway, New York, NY 10012
Q: What kind of food does Principe NYC serve?
A: Principe is a modern Italian seafood restaurant in NYC.
Q: What are the hours of Principe NYC?
A: The hours of Principe NYC are:
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