I heard that it takes on average 23 years for a New Yorker to make it Rao’s. For me, I’ve been a New Yorker for 25 years so in this case I am an underachiever. But that doesn’t matter; I made it to the legendary Rao’s in Harlem.  The road to our reservation was by a stroke of good luck in winning a Super Bowl charity auction and a coveted reservation. It was a bonus round that I was with five of my dearest friends too for the full experience. It wasn’t just any reservation either; we were with one of the long-time VIPs who scored us a reservation for nine guests at the prime front table. What ensued was an evening that did not disappoint at the legendary Rao’s New York.

Atmosphere

The hardest reservation in New York is as down to earth as it gets. It’s also right out of an episode of the Sopranos, where my efforts to channel Drea de Mateo’s character made me fit right in. On decor, I think that if you look up red sauce joint in the encyclopedia, Rao’s is under the definition. Like traditional old-school Italian restaurants, photos of famous patrons cover the walls of the dining room. The dining room is only 10 tables and there’s a simple bar in the center for pre-dinner cocktails. Every table is full at Rao’s and there’s a feeling like everyone knows each other in the room. The natural banter of the Rao’s waiters and manager add to the vibe. There is no doubt that you are in an Italian restaurant of a different era. The reservations are so coveted that it seems that everyone is pumped to be there. Or at least I know our group of 6 long-time friends was ready to roll.

Food + Wine

The beauty of Rao’s is the simplicity of the dishes and the quality of the ingredients, with just the right amount of magic in the execution. There’s not really a menu at Rao’s, but instead the waiter sings out the dishes of the day. It may be easier to say what you don’t want to eat versus what you do. We said yes to pretty much everything. The Italian salad does the heritage proud, with that perfect ratio of white wine vinegar and olive oil. For me it was one of the dark horses of the dozen or so dishes we ordered. I would say it was a perfect salad.

The fried calamari reminded me of growing up in Chicago and eating at a family friend’s Italian club. In other words it was legit; perfectly breaded and soft calamari rings. The seafood salad which was a cold preparation of shrimp, calamari, crabmeat and lobster went fast with the group. Once again it was perfectly dressed in a light olive oil. I don’t go to an Italian restaurant without ordering baked clams, which were once again, perfectly authentic. I was surprised by the mozzarella in carozza which I thought was just going to be regular fried mozzarella. Instead, it was in actual pieces of thin bread and in breadcrumbs. I tried making it at home post from the Rao’s cookbook but once again there was some magic in the execution.

The Pasta + Entree Course

We were conservative on the pastas and settled on the orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, the famed meatball, traditional bolognese and the penne in vodka sauce. The group swooned over the meatball. I regret I was too shy to ask for the vongole pasta, which would be on my order if I make it there before another 25 years. The pastas weren’t life changing but the whole experience leveled up the dishes. For entrees we opted for the steak, veal chop and shrimp. As a pescatarian I was especially into the shrimp and its light oreganata sauce. I asked them to keep the Italian salad on the table so it was a nice side with the mains. It was just so special to be at Rao’s that it didn’t quite matter what they brought out. But there is a reason that Rao’s has been around for 130+ years as the food is just well-done all around.

We didn’t go crazy on the desserts, but did have a small tasting of pistachio cherry ice cream, cheesecake and chocolate ice cream. Our table of 9 did well on the food in general, though there was a generous bag of leftovers for our host to take home.

Service

This is as far from white glove as it gets, but the authenticity and familiarity with the waiters is what makes Rao’s special This doesn’t mean though that the service isn’t flawless, in a Sopranos kind of way. There’s a reason that people treat Rao’s like a sacred institution, and it’s because they take care of you. Food comes out perfectly paced and waiters are attentive on your wine and water. There’s a familial banter when you’re with a VIP with the cast of characters who run this special joint.

Overall: 9/10

Rao’s is an institution.

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FAQs

Q: Where is Rao’s New York located?

A: Rao’s New York is located at 455 E 114th St, New York, NY 10029. in the Harlem neighborhood of Manhattan.

Q: How do you get a reservation at Rao’s New York?

A: This is a case where you really have to know someone. The tables at Rao’s are owned by long-time patrons so you have to be dialed into them directly or through your BFF to get a coveted table. There are two seatings an evening so you eventually have to give up your table if you’re on the earlier side. However if you’re extra special, there are two tables, the front for up to 10 guests and another 4 top where you get the table all night.

Q: Can you try to walk into Rao’s New York?

A: One can always dream of walking into Rao’s New York. Of course if you’re Aaron Judge, Jeff Bezos or a super model like Gisele you have good odds if by chance there’s a table.

Q: What are the hours of operation of Rao’s New York?

A: The hours of operation of Rao’s New York are as follows: