We can’t believe we’re saying this, but the Upper East Side is the new Downtown. Yes, finally there are compelling places that you could specifically seek out, north of 59^th Street. Welcome to Chez Fifi, a keeper that’s now one of the hottest spots in NYC.

Atmosphere

The predecessors who lived in the space on 74th Street fulfilled the no vibe and nondescript random NYC restaurant destiny that this space was fated to be. Chez Fifi shows that you can take destiny into your own hands, in their transformation of this bi-level space. Chez Fifi is everything that you dream a Parisian bistro should be. The dining room is cozy, warm and dark paneled walls, with plush deep red booths. Chez Fifi looks like it has been around for decades, but in its confidence and energy. The crowd has never looked better on the Upper East Side, and either have you. This is one of those places that gets lighting just right.

Chez Fifi is the place for everything from date night, girls night out or groups of couples. Just don’t be surprised if you run into someone from private school if you grew up on the Upper East Side.

The upstairs bar is as in demand as the dining room on the first floor. It’s split into a standing room bar area, then lounge tables. We actually ate our meal upstairs, where they offered us the full dining menu. I loved the energy and people watching upstairs. Although I didn’t go to private school in NYC, I felt like I did. It’s nice that people dress up for dinner, though this is the place you can still come in (nice) jeans. The atmosphere is one of the best I’ve seen as far as scene goes of the recent restaurants in NYC.

Food + Beverage

French bistros are almost a dime a dozen in New York, but Chez Fifi is special. Scene in New York goes in and out of style faster than Fashion Week cycles. However Chez Fifi has lasting potential because of its food. It’s this merit that will keep the well-heeled Upper East Side returning again and again. These are not fly-by-night restauranteurs either; the team is the same behind Sushi Noz. It may seem counter-intuitive that a Michelin-starred sushi restaurant’s next foray would be in French food. However the owners of one of the best sushi places in NYC are actually of French descent. I’ve always like Sushi Noz and their casual outpost, but the food at Chez Fifi hits all the right notes.

They Had Me at Caviar Fries

I knew I had to try this place when I saw caviar French fries on the menu. I thought the star of the dish would be the caviar, but it’s actually the frites themselves. They must triple fry the spuds because this rendition is the classic Parisian version that’s perfectly browned and crispy and crunchy. The caviar became secondary to me, served on top of a generous dollop of homemade aioli. I am not a mayo fan so I would probably order a double portion of caviar with aioli on the side. But this is all potato, po-tah-to; every table should have the fries.

Classic French and Japanese in Execution

Like the fries, the menu is classic French but Japanese in execution. Everything is done levels above what you would expect. We had a traditional French omelet that was full of morels and seasonal mushrooms, and topped with endless black truffle. It’s everything you want out of a $38 omelette.

I am obsessed with clam rice, where Chez Fifi’s version was not quite the creaminess of risotto and not quite the crunch of paella. Instead it was almost a Portuguese version with the runnier sauce. My favorite dish was the Txanguerro, which was a Basque deviled crab. Next time I would order this for my main as it was too good to share. Overall, Fifi has a diverse enough menu that you could make this your neighborhood staple, and not tire of the food. For food alone, it’s one of my favorite French bistros in NYC right now.

Service

Chez Fifi is an ode to owners David and Joshua Foulquier’s mother, Fifi. Growing up, Fifi was known for  her hospitality, so you can say it’s in the genes. You know how it is in NYC when a cool restaurant opens up, and the rush that ensues. Especially on the Upper East Side, people are not the most laid-back. So it’s ironic that the Foulquiers opened up Chez Fifi and thought it would be a low-key French spot. That is not at all what happened; it’s one of the hottest restaurants in New York right now.

So with that, the service is under a lot of pressure, and to start, they’re handling it well. I saw demanding group after demanding group try to muscle their way into a table. The maitre’d handled all professionally with polish that you see more at Daniel than a low-key neighborhood French restaurant. What this means is that you’re not getting the warm and fuzzies right away. But stick with me here for a bit.

We did get a table, and there’s a defense mechanism of professionalism that dealing with the Upper East Side requires. So at first, your service is formal, and for many of those around us, it stayed that way. However if you’re real and genuine, you break down that French polish and the team is genuinely nice. If you’re to a fly by night customer, Chez Fifi is the kind of place you could get probably the hospitality that Fifi herself showed her boys growing up.

Overall: 8/10

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FAQs

Q: Where is Chez Fifi located?

A: Chez Fifi is located at 140 E 74th St, New York, NY 10021.

Q: What are the hours of operation at Chez Fifi?

A: The hours of operation of Chez Fifi are as follows: