When you’re the OG, there’s normally no other way to go but down. And sometimes, those icons rest on their laurels, because why work hard when you’re just known as the best? That’s not the case with Singita – not only the most luxurious of safari lodges, but one of the best group of hotels in the world. It doesn’t matter if you’re name is Elon, Bill or Jeff; the Singita Ebony experience will blow anyone’s mind. And thirty-plus years on, Singita has somehow only gotten better with time. There may now be Singita lodges all over Africa, but the original Singita Ebony continues to flex.
Setting the Stage
When you arrive at Singita Ebony in Sabi Sands, you know that you are somewhere extraordinary. Having been on over 10 safaris at this stage (and also other Singita properties), in my opinion, there may just be nothing better than Singita Ebony. On arrival, the private air strip is about a 5-minute ride away from Ebony, as well as its sister property, Boulders. The Sabi River runs behind both properties, which provides not only views, but opportunities to see wildlife taking a drink and meandering within feet of your dinner table. Overall, the setup makes for a nice compound that has a curated gallery and boutique of local crafts in between. We had lunch one day at Boulders, though — it’s easy to go between the properties for all meals.
Stay A While
I think to get the full experience of what Singita has to offer, you need 4-5 days. Having that second lodge gives you a chance to mix it up and experience two spectacular world-class properties in the midst of the bush. Because Singita is on a private reserve, you get that deep in nature vibe that 45,000 acres of unspoiled wilderness affords. The other aspect that becomes clear to you as you connect and learn more about Singita is that it’s a conservation company, disguised as a luxury portfolio of hotels. I’ll go into that more later, because the hook here is one of the top baller experiences for those into luxury travel that you’ll find at Singita Ebony.
Atmosphere
When you refer to something as the OG, there are often predecessors. So, if we’re being technical, there are few greats that really are the original. However in the case of Singita, Ebony really is the OG in a number of respects. The property started as the home and hunting lodge of the Bailes family in 1925. Over decades of education, and long before “conservation” was a buzz word, the philosophy of the family evolved into a mission to preserve the land and wildlife of Africa. They knew they couldn’t do this alone, and that the conversion of mindset would take deep pockets and people who could support a change. So in 1993, the natural move was to convert the family homestead to the first true luxury safari lodge in Africa.
Welcome to the Grown-Ups Table
I give this background because as you arrive to Singita Ebony, you immediately know that this is where the grown-ups stay. Singita Ebony’s approach is modern South African, which purveys throughout. There is a vibe of strong confidence as you arrive — the great room with its vaulted ceilings, massive stone fireplace and deeply comfortable sitting area. The decor has both a masculinity to the design but also a warmth and an understated luxury. The atmosphere feels effortlessly luxurious. I really loved the multi-tiered decking as you stepped through the lodge that had dining and couches tucked onto each level.
Unlike some lodges that greet you with song (which is lovely), Singita Ebony skips through all the traditional gimmicks. Instead, you’re met by a team that clearly enjoys being there, and you’re greeted with a genuine warmth. One thing I noticed on this visit to Singita since my last is that there was a more polished style that embodies the atmosphere throughout.
Accommodations
Each of the accommodations at Singita Ebony is a standalone villa. While you are in the Sabi Sands first for safari, villas are utter perfection and deserve a whole day dedicated to enjoying the room. First are the views, which overlook the Sand River. Like the vibe of the main lodge, villas feel like they are substantially constructed and have a sense of place that reflects the wilderness. The sitting room and office area have a fully stocked bar and all the accouterments to do a cocktail night in. It was also the site of our intense Scrabble matches. I wanted to stay a few extra days just to look onto that view of Sabi and have a writing retreat.
Out of Africa
Bedrooms have that Out of Africa feel to them, with four-poster beds and that same Sabi River view. The floor-to-ceiling windows actually extend the length of the entire villa to take in that view. You’re not packing light if you’re going all-in on the safari gear, and we fully unpacked into the ample dressing room. There’s also something that inspires you to take a bath to live out your Meryl Streep moment in Africa. Bathrooms are huge and lead out onto the deck with a hot tub and a sizable pool. It is pure bliss to spend any moment you can in the rooms, where I wish we had enough time just to sleep in and not leave for a day. This is as good as it gets in the realm of luxury hotel experiences.
Activities
I say that you need at least 4 nights, optimally 5, to fully enjoy the Singita experience. Within that time, it takes at least 2 days to pinch yourself that you’ve done something right enough in life to be there. Straight away though, you are brought on safari, which is the whole reason you’ve traveled long and far for this lifetime experience. Safari starts anywhere from 6 to 7am, depending on the time of year. We had been on a safari for three days prior to arriving at Ebony and had not seen a male lion yet, which was on the wish list. Our guide, Martin, pretty much delivered that sighting within an hour by almost impossibly following the tracks in the dark. And, Martin delivered not only one male lion, but two.
A Private Concession
Unlike the public parts of Sabi or Kruger, where it’s almost like Disneyland viewing the wildlife as cars race like madmen, Singita is on a private reserve. That means that the general public isn’t around to take a look-sy, and you quickly fall into connecting deeply with the vast savannah and wilderness. Also in Sabi Sands, the land is generally flat, so it provides for some of the best wildlife viewing in Africa. Leopards practically fall out of trees (though seriously, it is one of the top places for sightings of the elusive leopard).
When you are on safari, your guide and your tracker are everything in your experience. Because Singita has been around the longest, this is not anyone on the team’s first rodeo. The training of the team who is in charge of keeping you safe, in addition to getting you the prime wildlife is the standard for the industry. While there are exceptional guides at many safari lodges, the breadth of knowledge, experience and passion of the Singita Ebony guides is unmatched.
Where Does the Time Go
Your day on safari goes quickly. There’s about a 4-hour break between game drives, but you’re not going to know where that time goes. I tried to be in two places at once enjoying the main lodge as well as our room, and still didn’t have enough time to take in all Singita Ebony had to offer. There’s a small spa and gym, though both are more for function than robust centers. I did work out one day, though the food was so clean it wasn’t to repent for any transgressions in my diet.
Food + Beverage
Similar to how this is not your standard issue safari, neither is the food at Singita. Singita’s food is modern, inventive South African cuisine. It is not easy to create Michelin-level meals in the bush. First is how you source ingredients, and second is the labor. Singita, of course, has come up with a solution that ties right into their commitment to conservation, which includes the community. In 2007, Singita opened its first cooking school that whether the graduates work at Singita or other lodges, provides a top-quality culinary education. The result is some of the most unique cuisine in the safari lodge space that is modern South African cuisine.
I loved the creativity of the food, especially a savory pancake with salmon and a green goddess-like sauce on top. The all-day menu bridges breakfast and lunch — and dinners are more substantial entrees. My friend is a simple eater — more meat and potatoes — and they were able to accommodate with some extra notice.
There’s also a benefit that the Boulders Lodge is a quick ride away, and you can arrange for meals between the two lodges. While Boulders sticks to the ethos of Singita’s modern South African cuisine, the lodge had its own unique menu that focuses on small plates. For my preference of grazing through as many dishes as possible, I may have liked Boulders cuisine a touch more. But then again, this is like comparing your children. You may have your favorite, but it’s probably not proper to say it out loud. The nutshell is that the food is excellent at Singita.
The Wine Cellar
Singita’s owner, Luke Bailes, is one of the top wine collectors in the country. Their cellars house about 200,000 bottles in total across all properties, and around 12,000 of those are at Singita Ebony. I am generally lukewarm on South African wine — unless it has some age to it, or if it comes out of Singita’s cellars. Granted, we didn’t break into any of the reserve but at Singita you don’t need to. While staying within our all-inclusive rate, we did get some wine from the early aughts each evening, which was just tops.
Service
One of the most unique aspects of Singita is that much of their leadership and many of their lead guides are local South Africans. Whereas many of the other international lodges bring in staff similar to what you’d see in any destination, Singita’s leadership is mostly local.
Also, while other safari lodges have a formality with butlers who show an element of deference to guests, Singita’s culture has evolved to one of genuine warmth. The culture of Ebony especially is one where people clearly love working there. There were many genuine laughs that I saw among the team and that permeated through my personal experience. That’s not to say that you’re not treated like a VIP and that you don’t have high-touch service. After all, the luxury accommodations are said and done — but it’s the people of Singita that make it special.
A Note About Conservation
There are few individuals who go on safari and lead with the intention of supporting conservation. For those of you who get this right off the bat, I applaud you. However, for the rest of us, a safari in Africa often opens up your mind as well as hearts preservation of wildlife and land. This is especially important because Africa is a continent that will have significant impact on the future of the world. Africa has the fastest growing population which is forecasted to reach about 1.7 billion individuals by 2030. This number constitutes about 20% of the world population.
What’s significant is there are estimates that with the population growth and median age of 19 years old, Africa will have 40% of the world population. This means that the unspoiled land of Africa could be something of history unless conscious efforts are made to conserve the land. Enter in Singita, which has led those efforts among the pack. Not everyone may get it, but at the end of the day, the luxurious accommodations are a way to achieve conservation efforts.
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FAQs
Q: Where is Singita Ebony located?
A: Singita Ebony is located in Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa.
Q: How do you get to Singita Ebony?
A: Most people fly into Singita Ebony, which has its own private airstrip about 5 minutes from the lodge. You can also drive on a well-paved road from Kruger International Airport, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours away.
Q: How far is Singita Boulders from Singita Ebony? Singita Boulders and Singita Ebony are about 5 minutes by car away from each other. They are both in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve on a private reserve.