Some restaurants arrive and feel like they’ve been around forever. In the case of Opto NYC in the Flatiron, forever is about one year. But clearly this year has been enough time to get into its groove, and establish itself as an essential neighborhood restaurant. It’s not by luck though that Opto has drawn a loyal following.  The owners are Executive Chef Alex Tubero — whose résumé spans Union Square Café and Amali —  and Nicola Kotsoni of a little place called Il Cantinori, that you may have heard of. So when it comes to creating restaurants that have staying power, this is not their first rodeo.

Atmosphere

There’s something to be said for the inheritance of a good room. The previous restaurant Periyali occupied this space for nearly four decades. While Opto is its unique thing entirely, with its strong start, it has a shot to establish its own legacy. The design, overseen by Glen Coben of Glen & Co. — the firm behind Gabriel Kreuther, Carbone, and Francie Brooklyn — leans into clean and modern, yet warm. There’s just enough texture and pattern, subtle colors and fabrics that drape the ceilings that elevates the scene. There is something about the vibe that feels Sex & The City from the early aughts.

The design isn’t the only reason why you feel like Samantha and Carrie would belong. The crowd is a mix of the next gen Sex & The City and the current day And Just Like That, and everyone in between. Whether you’re on a date, girls dinner or with a group of couples, Opto fits the bill. The dining room is lively but yet you can still hear your dining companions. Opto is the kind of place you can have on the rotation when you want a good scene and good food for any occasion. You could compare the atmosphere to Kyma, but there’s more character and I would. say soul to the restaurant. Also the food is that next level up.

Food + Drinks

Opto delivers modern Med that is equal opportunity of the region. From Israel to Lebanon to Greece, Italy and touches of Turkish, the menu keeps it interesting. Chef Tubero delivers with the kind of consistency and elevated execution that put it in contention for your favorite neighborhood restaurant. Chef’s approach is detail-oriented without ever feeling fussy.  The food is at least two notches, sometimes three notches, above the average Med-focused restaurant.

A Quick Guide of What to Order at Opto 

To Drink: The three-olive martini — a solo seat at the bar with one of these in hand is a perfectly valid evening plan. Complimentary bar snacks of pecorino popcorn and feta-stuffed olives only sweeten the deal.
Essential Table Share: Taramosalata with grilled bread, Arahova feta butter with Turkish simit bread. The latter is one of the best noshes on the menu.
Raw Bar/Crudo: Norwegian Yellowtail Tartare
Vegetables + Starters: Charred Spanish octopus if that’s your thing, gem lettuce salad with sesame-anchovy vinaigrette as another dark horse
Pasta: Tagliolini al Amalfi Limone and the spicy lobster spaghetti
Mains: Canary Islands Branzino, Dorade and the Rocky Mountain Lamb Chops.

First Things First

The owners show their hospitality background by offering you complimentary generous bar snacks of  pecorino popcorn and feta-stuffed fried olives at the bar. Those small touches for me go a long way to setting the tone. With these types of restaurants, I like to lean into the theme of sharing and filling your table with memes. Table stakes are the taramosalata with grilled bread and the feta butter with simit, the Turkish version of a bagel, which is one of the best dishes on the menu. Before you even decide on your appetizers the simit will be long gone. For appetizers, the Norwegian yellowtail tartare and the gem lettuce salad were table favorites, with the latter notches above a typical gem salad. The combination of the dill, sesame, shaved scallions and anchovy dressing is everything.

It is worth noting that for those who need to eat gluten-free, Opto takes cross-contimination next level. Opto has a separate grill, a dedicated fryer, gluten-free pita, (a most order where or not you’re gluten-free),  almond flour desserts, and the ability to make any pasta to a risotto.

Moving Through the Menu

I’m not an octopus fan, but my table mates declared the charred Spanish octopus is a must. A grill-marked tentacle rests on a generous base of aioli and soft potato chunks, finished with a splash of sherry vinegar that brightens the whole plate. It is one of the more interesting dishes on the menu and a reminder that Tubero knows how to build layers without overcomplicating things.

The tagliolini al Amalfi limone is one of those simple dishes that is near impossible to get right. Opto delivers, with the al limone that balances the acidity and richness of the emulsified. I thought that the Astakomakaronada, which in layman’s terms is spicy lobster spaghetti, was a highlight. Most restaurants go light on the space that you wonder, “Why bother”, but that’s not the case of this dish. There’s real heat without being overdone, another example of Chef’s ability to execute to the next level.

The Canary Islands branzino is another highlight. The skin arrives crisped to perfection which encloses the clean and delicate meat of the branzino, which steams as you peel the skin back. The Rocky Mountain lamb chops are equally strong — cooked with the same restraint and technique that runs through the rest of the menu.

The Nutshell on Food + Bev

Opto is cooking Mediterranean food with serious technique and admirable restraint. Not every dish reaches the heights of the branzino, lobster spaghetti or the simit, but the consistency is high and the kitchen clearly has a voice.

Service

The Il Cantinori pedigree shows through the service as your evening runs smoothly from start to finish. Surprisingly the maitre’d team is relatively young but they set a friendly and refreshing tone for your welcome. We walked in without a reservation to a completely packed room. The hosts worked it to get us in around 9pm which gave us a chance to check out Odo down the street. Almost right on time they texted us, which means that they understand the flow of their tables. The waitstaff team and bartenders are all polished and well-informed. The room moves at the right pace and everything comes out as it should. The steadiness of the service is part of the foundation that gives Opto the shot to make it.

Overall: 7.7/10

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FAQs

Q: Where is Opto NYC located?

A: Opto is located at 35 West 20th Street, New York, NY 10011, in the Flatiron District.

Q: Do you need reservations at Opto NYC?

A: Reservations are recommended at Opto NYC and available via Resy. Walk-ins can also try their luck at the bar or if you’re lucky, get a table later in the evening.

Q: What are the hours of operation at Opto NYC?

A: Opto NYC is open for dinner nightly from 5 PM. Their hours of operation are as follows: