The West Village is officially onto its 2.0 version, and it’s not just because of the new generation that has taken over. Fedora in NYC is back, and with a new rendition. And yet, it’s still that effortless neighborhood joint.
Atmosphere
The more things change, the more they stay the same. Fedora first opened in 1917, and in the 1950s, was taken over by its namesake, Fedora Dorato. For almost 60 years, she and her family ran a classic neighborhood red sauce joint. Eventually, West Village treasure Gabe Stulman took over Fedora as part of his neighborhood empire. That is, until tough times came with the pandemic and Fedora shut their doors. We should have known that it wasn’t the end of Fedora’s story, with this iteration led by independent restaurateurs from St. Jardim.
The West Village neighborhood has always been charming with its picturesque town-homes. Of course, the economic demographics have changed significantly, but every restaurant at Fedora’s address had its location be a prime selling point. You can say anything in the lower-level townhouse space was pre-destined to be cozy. While this version of Fedora has warmed up the space with more wood, overall it looks and feels the same. The setup of the bar and tables is virtually identical to the previous space.
So now, we’ve established that the physical space feels the same, we’ll also share that the crowd is as West Village as ever. It was like traveling back 20 years, and seeing myself in the tables of friends gathering over an easy meal. The crowd is as neighborhood-y and effortlessly cool as ever. The scene at the bar is friendly if you’re up for socializing over plates of pierogis as well.
Food + Beverage
The food matches the atmosphere—it’s cozy, stick-to-your-bones fare. I would best describe the cuisine as European, with dishes like sweetbreads and pierogis on the menu. Speaking of pierogis, this dish is one of the great prides and joys of the Fedora team. As long as you don’t expect the potato-filled dumplings to combust and entertain, they do the job. When I was there, the pierogis were served with a light butter sauce and al dente peas, green onion and favas. It’s a good share for the table and should be a meal in and of itself, as opposed to a starter.
I also had the cured snapper, which was heartier than you would expect. The fish almost tasted buttery in its pool of lemon pepper olive oil. Like the rest of the menu, it was all good, but didn’t rock my world. The dish that I think doesn’t get nearly enough credit is their spaghetti and clams. It’s prepared Sicilian-style with breadcrumbs on top and the clam sauce itself is perfectly emulsified. During my visit, there was also braised cabbage which went perfectly with the pierogi. I hope they bring it back for the fall.
As for whether or not I would return; the food was about equal to slightly better than what I could make in my own kitchen. It’s the reason that I would come back — for a no-fuss meal.
Service
While the team overall is young, they punch way above their age class in terms of service. The host stand is friendly and tries their best to accommodate walk-ins. Bartenders are there to make sure you’re well-watered for the evening. Waitstaff are punctual and food and beverage come out seamlessly. Clearly, they’re running a professional operation between the front and back of the house.
Overall 7.7/10
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FAQs
Q: Where is Fedora NYC located?
A: Fedora NYC is located at 239 W 4th St, New York, NY 10014. Phone: (917) 748-1926
Q: What are the hours of operation of Fedora NYC?
A: The hours of operation of Fedora NYCA are as follows:
Q: What kind of food does Fedora NYC serve?
A: Fedora NYC serves
Q: Do you need reservations at Fedora NYC?
A: Reservations are highly recommended at Fedora NYC. Reservations are at resy.com.
