Italy doesn’t ask for much—just your full attention, maybe your appetite, and ideally, a few weeks of your life. There’s something about the way pasta tastes after a day of doing absolutely nothing. But when it comes to picking a place to stay, things get a bit more complicated. Do we want chandeliers, old-school glamour, and a concierge who’s worked there since 1973? Or do we want handcrafted ceramics, a playlist in the room, and a minibar with kombucha? To…