The place: Aamanns-Copenhagen in Tribeca
The space: On Aamanns’
The place: Montmartre in Chelsea
The space: Not since the invention of the cheese curd, and Brett Favre in There’s Something About Mary, has Wisconsin delivered this kind of brilliance. Owned by the Little Wisco group, this is a prime example of how New York does it better. Even a quintessential French bistro in Paris seems like a runner-up. The brasserie bar and framed drawings and photographs that hang cleanly on white brick walls create an ambiance of an older establishment revised, despite its 2013 time stamp.
The ingredient: The Campari soda is presented with the pomp and circumstance of tea with the Queen, with handcrafted grapefruit bitters served on a silver tray. The cocktails, with nostalgic names like Basement Dancing and Cards with Uncle Larry, celebrate the olden days that you probably never experienced, but wish you had.
The special: The food, as with any respectable restaurant, changes with the seasons. The NY strip steak consistently rocks the meat and potatoes department. Next visit, we’ll picket to lobby for the return of the brandade-whipped cod. In less dramatic fashion, the trick to getting a table without a reservation is supper on Sunday night, when you're joined by the coolest of cool characters.
Montmartre: 158 Eighth Ave., Chelsea, 646-596-8838, montmartrenyc.com
(All photos by Henry Hargreaves; courtesy of Montmartre)